1984 Rolex 'McQueen' Explorer II
Reference 1655
Stainless Steel
Black Dial
Box
Few vintage Rolex watches carry a nickname as famous, or as misunderstood, as the Explorer II reference 1655. Known around the world as the "Steve McQueen," it is one of the most distinctive tool watches Rolex ever produced, with its bold orange 24-hour hand, fixed engraved bezel, and purposeful black dial. This 1984 example, crafted in stainless steel, comes from the final years of the reference's long production run and captures everything that has made the 1655 one of the most characterful and collectible sports watches of its era.
The Explorer II was introduced in 1971 as a successor in spirit to the original Explorer, the watch Rolex associated with the conquest of Everest. Where the original Explorer was a simple, rugged time-only watch, the Explorer II was conceived for a very specific kind of adventurer: cave explorers, polar researchers, and others who spend long periods without natural daylight. Deep underground or during the endless days and nights near the poles, it can be surprisingly difficult to tell whether it is day or night. The Explorer II solved that problem with an additional 24-hour hand, allowing the wearer to distinguish between morning and evening at a glance.
That 24-hour hand is the 1655's signature. Large, arrow-tipped, and painted a vivid orange, it makes one complete rotation every 24 hours, pointing to the engraved 24-hour scale on the fixed stainless steel bezel. The oversized arrow is so recognizable that Italian collectors nicknamed the watch the "Freccione," or "big arrow." Its bold color and shape gave the Explorer II a look unlike anything else in the Rolex catalog, and Rolex would not revive the orange hand until the modern Explorer II reference 216570 in 2011, a clear sign of how strongly the original design had endured in collectors' imaginations.
The "Steve McQueen" nickname is part of the watch's charm, but it is a legend rather than history. Despite the name, Steve McQueen never wore or owned an Explorer II. The actor famously wore a Rolex Submariner reference 5512, and the exact origin of his association with the 1655 has never been established. The name stuck nonetheless, and today it is used affectionately by enthusiasts around the world, a reminder that the watch's appeal comes not from celebrity but from its own bold design and genuine purpose.
The dial is a study in legibility. Its matte black surface provides a crisp backdrop for luminous rectangular hour markers, a triangle at twelve, and a fine minute track, all designed to be read quickly in low light. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II signature sits beneath twelve, while the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified text appears above six. The hour and minute hands carry luminous inserts, and the date appears at three o'clock beneath the Cyclops lens on the domed acrylic crystal. Over the decades, the luminous material on the dial and hands has softened to a warm, creamy tone, giving the watch a gentle vintage patina that contrasts beautifully with the bright orange 24-hour hand.
The bezel is another defining element. Unlike the rotating bezels of the GMT-Master, the 1655's bezel is fixed, engraved directly into the steel with a 24-hour scale. The graduations are separated by simple hash marks rather than the triangles of later references, giving the bezel a clean, retro design that complements the industrial character of the watch. Together with the orange hand, it allows the wearer to read the 24-hour time instantly, a practical tool for anyone working far from daylight.
Inside is the self-winding Rolex Calibre 1575, the same robust movement family that powered the GMT-Master of the period, adapted here to drive the 24-hour hand. Early 1655s were fitted with the Calibre 1570, and the reference later moved to the 1575, which is known for its reliability and durability. As a certified chronometer, the movement was tested for precision before leaving the factory, and with proper care these movements continue to run beautifully decades after they were made.
The stainless steel Oyster case measures 40 mm in diameter, with a screw-down case back and a Twinlock crown protected by crown guards. Its proportions give the watch real presence on the wrist while remaining comfortable for everyday wear, and the domed acrylic crystal adds a warmth and softness that defines vintage Rolex. The watch is worn on a steel Oyster bracelet, completing its rugged, tool-watch character.
As a 1984 example, this watch comes from the final years of the 1655's production before Rolex replaced it with the reference 16550 in the mid-1980s. Over its long run, the 1655 evolved through several dial variations, and late examples like this one represent the mature form of the design, combining the reference's original spirit with the refinements of more than a decade of production.
Part of the 1655's enduring appeal is how different it feels from every other vintage Rolex sports watch. The Submariner and GMT-Master are defined by their rotating bezels and colorful inserts, while the 1655 offers something more industrial and purposeful, with its brushed steel bezel and single bold splash of orange. That combination makes it instantly recognizable from across a room, yet it remains understated enough to wear every day. It pairs naturally with casual clothing and adds a sense of adventure to more tailored outfits, and its 40 mm case wears comfortably on a wide range of wrists. For many collectors, the 1655 is the watch that best captures the experimental spirit of Rolex in the 1970s.
What makes this Rolex Explorer II 1655 so compelling is the combination of purposeful design, unmistakable style, and a story that collectors never tire of telling. It is a genuine tool watch created for explorers working in the absence of daylight, distinguished by its oversized orange 24-hour hand and engraved steel bezel, and wrapped in one of the most enduring legends in vintage watch collecting. For anyone who appreciates vintage Rolex at its most characterful, the 1655 is a true icon.