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Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry · Southampton, NY · Vintage Rolex GMT-Master Specialists

Sell Your Vintage
Rolex GMT-Master.

Pepsi bezels. Root Beer patina. Coke dials. Nipple dials on two-tone and gold. Gilt chapter rings. Fat font. Collectors from around the world come to us for the GMT-Master — and the ref. 1675 Pepsi is our favorite watch in all of vintage Rolex. Originality, patina, and an unpolished case matter more to us than box and papers. We pay accordingly.

Ref. 1675 Pepsi Root Beer 1675 Coke 16710 Nipple Dial 1675/3 & 1675/8 Gilt Dials Fat Font Matte Dials Unpolished Cases All Ref. 6542–16713
1954
First GMT-Master Ref. 6542
1675
Our Favorite Reference
40 Yrs
Market Experience

World-Class Vintage GMT-Master Buyers · Pepsi, Root Beer, Coke, Nipple Dial, Gilt — All Actively Purchased

We have spent four decades in this market and the GMT-Master — specifically the ref. 1675 Pepsi — is one of the watches we are most passionate about. When you bring us a 1675, you are talking to someone who can read the chapter ring, assess the bezel insert fade, evaluate the dial patina, and tell you immediately whether this is the real thing and what it is worth. We buy all vintage GMT-Masters — from the bakelite-bezel ref. 6542 to the Coke 16710 — including the coveted Nipple Dial 1675, the Root Beer 1675/3, and every gilt, matte, and tropical variant in between. We pay the premium that original, unpolished, patinated examples command. Box and papers are a bonus, not a prerequisite. What we want to see is the watch itself.

Glenn Bradford — As Seen In

Forbes  ·  Dan's Papers  ·  Social Life  ·  Hamptons Magazine

Pepsi 1675
Our Favorite — Multiple In Inventory
Root Beer
1675/3 Brown Bezel — Actively Purchased
Coke 16710
Black/Red Bezel — Strong Collector Demand
Nipple Dial
Applied Gilt Indices — Maximum Premium Paid
Gilt & Fat Font
Early Variants — Maximum Premium Paid
Unpolished
All-Original Cases Sought — Full Market Premium
Global
Collectors From Around the World

Our Standard

What We Look For

The vintage GMT-Master market rewards originality above all else. Condition, patina, and an untouched case are what separates a watch worth $12,000 from one worth $60,000. We evaluate every factor and pay accordingly.

Unpolished Cases
The single most important factor. An unpolished GMT-Master retains its original case geometry — sharp lug lines, defined edges, correct case taper. A polished 1675 is a fundamentally different proposition to a collector. We pay the maximum premium for unpolished examples and are completely transparent about what polishing costs a seller.
Original Bezel Inserts
The bezel insert is the first thing collectors look at and the most commonly replaced component. Original Pepsi (red/blue), Root Beer (brown/gold), and Coke (black/red) inserts with correct fading and printing — not a replacement — are essential. Faded Pepsi bezels that have shifted toward pink or cream are actually prized; the fade is proof of age and originality.
Original Dials & Patina
Gilt dials with their warm gold printing, early matte dials with untouched tritium plots, and — most coveted — dials that have developed genuine tropical patina. The color range a vintage GMT dial can achieve over decades is extraordinary, from honey to deep brown. We evaluate dial authenticity with expertise and welcome honest age.
Bracelets & Hardware
Bracelets are like the picture frame for a piece of fine art. It does not dictate value. A correct period bracelet is a welcome addition and adds a premium on top of a watch that already stands on its own — but the watch is the work of art. We evaluate the case, dial, and bezel first. The bracelet is context.
Provenance & Documentation
What matters first is the watch — its originality, its condition, its bezel and dial integrity. Box and papers are an additive premium, not a baseline. Known ownership history, original purchase receipts, and service records add value on top of what the watch already is. A correct, unpolished 1675 Pepsi with no box still commands its full market value.
Honest Wear Welcome
Light wear consistent with age is proof of life, not a negative. The vintage GMT-Master was built for professional use — pilots, diplomats, travelers — and honest wear is part of the story. What we cannot overlook is aggressive polish, dial restoration, bezel replacement, or crown swap. A GMT worn daily for forty years in an unpolished case is far preferable to one that has been "cleaned up."

A Watch Born From the Jet Age

From Pan Am Flight Decks to the World's Wrists

The GMT-Master was born from a contract, not a sketch. In 1954, Pan American World Airways approached Rolex with a specific problem: its pilots flying the new transatlantic routes were managing multiple time zones simultaneously — cockpit time, home time, destination time — with instruments that could only track one. Rolex's answer was the ref. 6542, the first GMT-Master: a 38mm Oyster with a red and blue two-tone bezel insert and a fourth hand that made one complete revolution every 24 hours. The "Pepsi" nickname — for the red and blue colors of the bezel — was not a marketing term. It was what collectors called it, quietly, decades later, when they understood what they had.

The ref. 6542 bezel insert was made of bakelite — a fragile plastic that survived neither heat nor flight regulations. It is the reason original 6542 bezels are among the rarest components in all of vintage Rolex.

The ref. 6542 ran only from 1954 to 1959. Its bakelite bezel — which the FAA banned from cockpits as a fire hazard — was replaced by aluminum in the transition model, and by 1959 Rolex had introduced the ref. 1675, the watch that would define the GMT-Master for the next two decades. The 1675 was produced continuously from 1959 to 1980 — a 21-year run that generated every variation collectors now obsess over: gilt dials with their warm gold printing and pointed crown guards, the short-lived "fat font" dial printing, matte dials that replaced gilt around 1965, long chapter rings, short chapter rings, meters-first and feet-first depth ratings, tritium plots that have aged into every shade between white and deep cream, and bezel inserts in Pepsi blue/red, Root Beer brown/gold, and — by special order — all-black. Serial numbers for the 1675 run from approximately 545,000 to 6,100,000. Every hundred thousand serials tells a different collecting story.

In 1966, Rolex introduced the ref. 1675/3 — the "Root Beer" GMT-Master, with a brown and gold bezel insert that made it one of the most visually distinctive Rolex watches ever produced. The matching brown/root beer dial variant is rarer still and commands extraordinary premiums. The Root Beer was produced alongside the standard Pepsi 1675 through the end of the reference run. Gold versions — the ref. 1675/8 in yellow gold and the rare white gold variant — were produced in smaller numbers and are among the most sought-after GMT configurations of all.

By 1980, Rolex introduced the ref. 16750 — the "Transitional" GMT-Master, which bridged the gap between the 1675 era and the modern 16710. The 16750 introduced the quickset date function for the first time in the GMT line, retained the acrylic crystal of the 1675 era, and upgraded the movement to Cal. 3075 (28,800 vph). The 16710 followed in 1989 with a sapphire crystal and the full modern case, in Pepsi and Coke (black/red) bezel configurations, until 2007 when the GMT-Master II superseded it entirely. Each of these references has its own collecting logic — and we buy all of them.

What We Buy

Every Significant Vintage
GMT-Master Reference

From the 1954 bakelite-bezel ref. 6542 to the final ref. 16710 Coke. Pepsi, Root Beer, gilt, matte, tropical — every configuration purchased at the price the market actually pays for originality.

Ref. 1675 Pepsi — Our Favorite
Ref. 1675 · 1959–1980 · Red/Blue Pepsi Bezel · Cal. 1575

The watch we are most passionate about, full stop. The ref. 1675 Pepsi is 21 years of production across more variations than any other GMT-Master reference — gilt dials, matte dials, fat font, long chapter ring, meters-first, pointed crown guards, open crown guards, and dozens of dial/bezel/bracelet combinations. Early "Gilt" examples (c.1959–1965) with gold printing on glossy black dials and pointed crown guards command the highest premiums. "Fat Font" dials (c.1963–1965) — with wider, rounder letter-printing — are among the rarest and most coveted of all 1675 variants. We hold multiple examples in current inventory and pay the maximum the market offers.

★ Our Core Specialty
Ref. 1675 Nipple Dial
Ref. 1675/3 · 1675/8 · Two-Tone & Yellow Gold · Applied Round Yellow Gold Hour Markers

Among the most coveted dial variants in all of vintage GMT-Master collecting. The "Nipple Dial" gets its name from the applied round yellow gold hour markers — raised, circular, and gold-filled with luminescence — that distinguish these dials from the flat baton indices of the standard steel 1675. The nipple dial is found specifically on the two-tone Rolesor ref. 1675/3 and the yellow gold ref. 1675/8, and later on some examples of the 16753 and 16758. On the 1675/3, the nipple dial frequently pairs with the Root Beer (brown/gold) bezel insert, creating one of the most visually complete vintage GMT configurations in existence. A 1675/3 with an original brown nipple dial and a correct faded Root Beer bezel is a watch collectors search for over years. We evaluate every claimed nipple dial carefully — the applied round markers must be original and the dial correct for the reference.

★ Actively Purchased — Strong Premium
Ref. 1675 Root Beer
Ref. 1675/3 · 1966–1980 · Brown/Gold Bezel · Steel & Gold Rolesor

One of the most visually distinctive watches Rolex has ever made. The 1675/3 "Root Beer" replaced the Pepsi's red/blue insert with a warm brown/gold bezel that gave the watch an entirely different character. Produced in Rolesor (steel/gold) as standard — with the matching two-tone bracelet — and in rare all-gold configurations. The Root Beer dial variant (brown/tropical dial with matching bezel) is exceptionally rare and commands dramatic premiums. A nipple dial Root Beer is among the rarest 1675 combinations in existence. A correct, unpolished Root Beer with original bezel is among the most desirable vintage Rolex configurations we encounter.

★ Actively Purchased
Ref. 16710 Coke — Black/Red
Ref. 16710 · 1989–2007 · Black/Red "Coke" Bezel · Cal. 3185

The Coke 16710 is one of the signature vintage GMT configurations — a black/red bezel insert that gives the watch a bold, graphic character entirely different from the Pepsi's red and blue. Produced alongside the Pepsi 16710 for the full production run (1989–2007), the Coke is equally desirable to collectors and commands strong premiums in unpolished, original-bezel condition. The all-red insert 16710 — a special-order variant — is one of the rarest 16710 configurations. A faded Coke bezel where the red has shifted toward an orange-red is an original insert showing its age, which collectors appreciate. We buy all 16710 Coke examples in any condition.

★ Core Specialty
Ref. 6542 — The Original
Ref. 6542 · 1954–1959 · Bakelite or Aluminum Bezel · Cal. 1030

The first GMT-Master — produced for Pan Am and among the most historically significant Rolex sports watches of the 1950s. Two bezel insert phases: the original bakelite Pepsi insert (banned by the FAA; most examples have been replaced — original bakelite commands extraordinary premiums) and the later aluminum insert, introduced as a transition piece before the 1675. Cal. 1030 movement; 38mm case; no date; "thunderbird" or early pointed-crown-guard case. An original 6542 with intact bakelite bezel in any condition is a priority purchase for us. We also strongly value the aluminum-bezel 6542 in unpolished, original condition.

★ Highest Priority
Gold GMT-Masters
Ref. 1675/8 · 1675/9 · 16758 · Yellow Gold · White Gold · 1960s–1990s

The rarest GMT-Master configurations of the vintage era. The 1675/8 in 18K yellow gold is produced in far smaller numbers than its steel counterpart and carries proportionally significant premiums. The white gold 1675/9 is rarer still — among the least-encountered GMT variants of the entire production run. The later 16758 in yellow gold (with sapphire crystal, 1983 onward) continues the gold GMT line. All gold GMT-Masters, in any condition, are priority purchases. Matching gold bracelets — original-length — add further value.

★ Priority Purchase
Ref. 16750 — Transitional
Ref. 16750 · c.1980–1988 · Quickset Date · Acrylic Crystal · Cal. 3075

The bridge between the 1675 era and the modern GMT line. The 16750 introduced the quickset date complication — the first in any GMT-Master — powered by Cal. 3075 (28,800 vph), and doubled water resistance to 100m. Crucially, it retained the acrylic crystal of the 1675 era, keeping its vintage aesthetic while improving the movement significantly. Produced in Pepsi (red/blue) and rarely Coke (black/red) bezel configurations. 40mm. Early 16750 examples with matte dials are the most desirable; from approximately 1986 onward, Rolex transitioned to glossy dials with applied white gold indices — matte-dial 16750s are rarer and command a premium. The 16750 is often undervalued relative to the 1675 it followed — we pay market price for correct, unpolished examples.

Actively Purchased
Ref. 16710 Pepsi — Final Vintage GMT
Ref. 16710 · 1989–2007 · Red/Blue Pepsi Bezel · Cal. 3185 · Sapphire Crystal

The last Pepsi GMT-Master before the GMT-Master II superseded the line. The 16710 introduced the full modern case — closed lugs, sapphire crystal, 40mm — with the classic red/blue Pepsi bezel. Faded Pepsi inserts where the red has shifted toward pink or cream are original and prized by collectors. The all-red insert 16710 is among the rarest variants in the entire production run. Original, unpolished 16710 Pepsi examples with correct bracelets and original bezel inserts are purchased at strong premiums.

Actively Purchased

Request a Private GMT-Master Evaluation

Tell us about your watch and we'll respond with a serious assessment. For significant pieces, a call is often faster — (631) 400-9800.

Documentation & Provenance

Your information is kept strictly confidential and never shared. For immediate response on significant pieces, call (631) 400-9800.

Thank You

We have received your submission and will respond promptly with an assessment. For immediate assistance on significant pieces, call (631) 400-9800.

Complete Reference Directory

Every Vintage GMT-Master Reference

From the 1954 bakelite ref. 6542 to the final 16710 Coke — every reference we actively purchase, with the key collecting notes each demands.

No references match your search.
Ref. 6542 — The Original GMT-Master 1954–1959 · Cal. 1030
6542 — Bakelite Bezel
Original Pepsi Insert — FAA-Banned
1954–c.1957 · plastic red/blue bezel · no date · 38mm · Cal. 1030
★ Priority — original bakelite commands extreme premium
6542 — Aluminum Bezel
Transitional to 1675 Production
c.1957–1959 · aluminum Pepsi insert · same Cal. 1030 · 38mm
Unpolished = strong premium
6542 — Any Configuration
All 6542 Examples Purchased
Pointed crown guards · no date window · Cal. 1030 · 1954–1959
Call us immediately with any 6542
Ref. 1675 Pepsi — Gilt & Fat Font Era c.1959–1965 · Cal. 1565 (early) / 1575 (from c.1965) · Our Highest Priority 1675
1675 — Gilt Dial, Pointed CG
First 1675 Production · Gold Printing
c.1959–1963 · glossy black dial · gold text · pointed crown guards · Cal. 1565
★ Earliest production — maximum premium
1675 — Fat Font Gilt
Wide-Letter Gilt Printing · Rarest Dial
c.1963–1965 · wider, rounder typeface on glossy dial · highly sought
★ Fat Font — among rarest 1675 dials
1675 — Gilt, Long Chapter Ring
Extended Chapter Ring Variant
Longer inner chapter ring text · transition period · gilt printing
Noted collecting variant
1675 — Gilt, Meters First
Depth Rating in Meters Above Feet
Dial reads "200m = 660ft" not "660ft = 200m" · European market
Meters-first = premium
1675 — Gilt, Tropical Dial
Developed Patina — Honey to Brown
Original gilt dial aged to tropical color · wholly original · extreme rarity
★ Tropical gilt = call immediately
Ref. 1675 Pepsi — Matte Dial Era c.1965–1980
1675 — Matte Dial, Steel
Standard Matte Black, Pepsi Bezel
c.1965–1980 · flat black dial · tritium plots · Cal. 1575 · open CG
1675 — Matte, Meters First
Meters Above Feet Depth Rating
European market preference · matte era · Cal. 1575
Premium variant
1675 — Matte, Tropical Dial
Naturally Aged Brown/Honey Patina
Wholly original dial aged from black to tropical brown or honey
★ Tropical = significant premium
1675 — Faded Pepsi Bezel
Aged Red Shifted to Pink or Cream
Original bezel insert · natural UV fade from red toward pink/cream
Original faded bezel = desirable
Nipple Dial — 1675/3, 1675/8, 16753, 16758 Two-Tone & Gold References · Applied Round Gold Hour Markers
1675/3 — Nipple Dial, Black
Two-Tone Rolesor · Applied Round Gold Indices · Black Dial
Steel/gold Rolesor · round raised gold hour markers with lume · Root Beer or Pepsi bezel
★ Significant premium
1675/3 — Nipple Dial, Brown
Brown Nipple Dial + Root Beer Bezel
Brown/soleil dial with round gold nipple indices + faded Root Beer insert · exceptional rarity
★ Most sought-after nipple dial combination
1675/8 — Nipple Dial
Yellow Gold · Applied Round Gold Indices
Full yellow gold case · black or tropical dial · round gold nipple hour markers
★ Priority — call immediately
16753 / 16758 — Nipple Dial
Later Two-Tone & Gold with Nipple Indices
Some early 16753 and 16758 examples retain nipple dial · transitional production
Verify dial originality — call us
Ref. 1675/3 — Root Beer c.1966–1980 · Brown/Gold Bezel · Rolesor
1675/3 — Rolesor, Black Dial
Steel/Gold with Root Beer Bezel
Standard black matte dial · brown/gold bezel · two-tone Rolesor bracelet
1675/3 — Root Beer Dial
Brown Dial + Brown/Gold Bezel
Matching brown dial · exceptionally rare · commands dramatic premium
★ Root Beer dial = call immediately
1675/3 — Tropical Dial
Naturally Aged Patina + Root Beer Bezel
Black dial aged to tropical tone + original root beer bezel · ultra-rare combination
★ Ultra-rare — call immediately
1675/3 — Any Configuration
All Root Beer Examples Purchased
With original root beer bezel in any condition · full market premium paid
Gold GMT-Masters Ref. 1675/8 · 1675/9 · 16758 · Yellow & White Gold
1675/8
18K Yellow Gold Pepsi
Yellow gold · Pepsi bezel · gilt or matte dial depending on period · all-gold bracelet
★ Priority — strong premium over steel
1675/9
White Gold Pepsi — Ultra-Rare
White gold case · extremely low production · among rarest GMT variants
★ Call immediately with any 1675/9
16758
Yellow Gold — Sapphire Crystal Era
1983–1988 · 18K YG · sapphire crystal · Cal. 3075 · Pepsi bezel
Priority purchase
Any Gold GMT
All Gold Configurations Purchased
Any reference, any era — full market premium paid on all yellow and white gold examples
Ref. 16750 — Transitional GMT-Master c.1980–1988 · Cal. 3075 · Quickset Date · Acrylic Crystal
16750 — Steel, Pepsi
Red/Blue Bezel · Quickset Date
1980–1988 · Cal. 3075 · first quickset GMT · matte or glossy dial variants · 40mm
16750 — Steel, Coke
Black/Red Bezel — Rare Variant
Black/red bezel on 16750 · rarer than Pepsi · noted collecting variant
Coke 16750 = premium
16750 — Matte Dial
Early Production, Matte Black
Early 16750 with matte dial · 78360 bracelet · most desirable 16750 configuration
★ Early matte 16750 = strongest demand
16750 — Any
All Configurations Purchased
Unpolished, original bezel, correct bracelet code — full premium paid
Ref. 16710 — Coke 1989–2007 · Black/Red Bezel · Cal. 3185
16710 — Coke, Steel
Black/Red Bezel · Standard Production
1989–2007 · 40mm · Cal. 3185 · sapphire crystal · 78790 Oyster bracelet
★ Core specialty — all examples purchased
16710 — All Red
Special Order All-Red Insert
Entirely red bezel insert · extremely rare special order · rarest 16710 variant
★ Call immediately — extraordinary premium
16710 — Coke, Faded
Aged Original Insert · Red Shifted
Original bezel insert with natural fade on the red portion · unswapped · desirable
Original aged insert = premium
Ref. 16710 — Pepsi 1989–2007 · Red/Blue Bezel · Cal. 3185
16710 — Pepsi, Steel
Red/Blue Bezel · Cal. 3185
1989–2007 · 40mm · sapphire crystal · Cal. 3185 · 78790 Oyster bracelet
16710 — Faded Pepsi
Aged Red → Pink/Cream · Original Insert
Original insert aged naturally · not replaced · rare to find unswapped
Original faded = desirable

Why Glenn Bradford

The Glenn Bradford Difference

Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry has been buying and selling investment-grade vintage watches from Southampton for more than forty years. The GMT-Master — and the ref. 1675 Pepsi specifically — is one of the watches closest to us. We are not generalists who occasionally encounter a Pepsi bezel; we are specialists who seek them, hold them, and transact them with collectors from around the world. When you bring us a 1675, you are speaking with someone who has handled the reference dozens of times, who knows what a correct chapter ring looks like, who can evaluate a bezel insert on sight, and who has a buyer community that pays the actual market for the finest examples.

Our expertise covers every dimension of the GMT-Master that determines value: the difference between a gilt dial and a matte dial and how condition within each category affects price; the chapter ring variants and depth rating configurations that command premiums; the bezel insert conditions that make or break a transaction; the bracelet codes and what a correct-length, unstretched rivet bracelet means to a serious collector. We evaluate all of these factors individually when we make an offer — not as a package discount.

The vintage Rolex market at the level we operate is a relationship business. We maintain direct contact with serious GMT-Master collectors internationally — people who are looking for exactly the watch you have, who will pay the maximum the market can bear, and who appreciate the discretion this community requires. Whether you are selling a single Pepsi 1675 or a collection assembled over decades, the first conversation is always free, always private, and never obligates you to sell.

Frequently Asked

Common Questions

Can I sell my GMT-Master if I'm not local to Southampton?+

Yes. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally. Submit your piece through the form above with clear photographs of the case, dial, caseback, and any paperwork. We will provide a preliminary assessment promptly and can arrange fully insured shipping or a private appointment at our Southampton flagship boutique — whatever is most convenient for you.

How important is the bezel insert on a vintage GMT-Master?+

It is the first thing a serious collector looks at, and the most commonly replaced component on vintage GMT-Masters. An original insert — whether Pepsi, Root Beer, or Coke — that has aged naturally in place is worth significantly more than a replacement, even a period-correct one. Pepsi inserts that have faded from red toward pink or cream are not devalued by that change; the natural fade is evidence of originality and age, which collectors prize. We can assess the authenticity of a bezel insert from clear photographs. If you are uncertain whether your insert is original, contact us — it is something we evaluate on sight.

Do I need box and papers to sell my vintage GMT-Master?+

No. With vintage GMT-Masters, the watch itself is the primary determinant of value — not what came with it. An original, unpolished 1675 Pepsi with a correct-period bracelet and original bezel insert commands its full market value whether or not it has its box and papers. Documentation is an additive premium on top of what the watch already is. A correctly documented 1675 with a polished case will always be worth less than an unpolished example with no paperwork. We evaluate condition, originality, and bezel integrity first. Bring us the watch — whatever documentation you have is a bonus, not a prerequisite.

What makes one ref. 1675 worth more than another?+

In order of impact: (1) Case condition — unpolished, with sharp lug lines and original case geometry, commands the largest single premium. (2) Dial variant — gilt dial (especially fat font) commands more than matte; tropical patina on either is a major uplift. (3) Bezel insert — original vs. replacement, and the condition and color integrity of the original. (4) Bracelet — period-correct and unstretched, with a matching code for the serial range. (5) Serial/configuration coherence — everything should be consistent with the production period. We assess each factor individually and combine them into a complete picture.

Begin the Conversation

Ready to Sell Your
Vintage GMT-Master?

Reach us by phone, email, or through the form above. Private consultations available in Southampton and New York.