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Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry · Southampton, New York

Sell Your Vintage Rolex
Explorer & Explorer II

We are collectors. We specialize in the ref. 1016 Explorer and the ref. 1655 Explorer II. Patina, originality, and an unpolished case tell us more about a watch than any box or paper ever could.

Pre-Explorer 6098 · 6298 Ref. 6150 · 6350 · 6610 ★ Ref. 1016 Gilt Dial · Matte Dial Space-Dweller ★ Ref. 1655 "McQueen" Rail Dial · MK1–MK5 Ref. 14270 · 16550 · 16570
40+
Years Buying Vintage Rolex
1953
Explorer's Everest Debut
29
Years Ref. 1016 Produced
Global
Collector Network


Vintage Rolex Explorer Specialists · Collectors Since Day One

We do not simply sell vintage Explorers — we collect them. Reference 1016 in particular: we know every dial variant, every serial range, every lume signature, every bracelet configuration. We know what a genuine unserviced gilt dial looks like versus one that has been touched. We know the Space-Dweller, the Rail Dial, the MK1 straight-hand 1655. When you bring us a vintage Explorer, you are speaking to someone who wants it as much as any buyer you could find anywhere in the world.


As Seen In

Forbes  ·  Dan's Papers  ·  Social Life  ·  Hamptons Magazine

40+
Years in Southampton

Collectors
We Buy What We Love

10-B
Jobs Lane, Southampton

Global
Network of Explorer Collectors

Private
Confidential Transactions

How We Evaluate

The Explorer Collector's Creed


Patina Tells the Truth
On a vintage Explorer, patina is not damage — it is provenance. The warm cream of aged lume plots, the tropical shift of a well-kept gilt dial, the honey tone of aging tritium: these signatures confirm originality and add value. We read patina the way others read papers.
Unpolished Cases Command a Premium
Sharp lug edges, crisp chamfers, and original case geometry are worth far more than a mirror finish. A polished Explorer has had its character erased. We pay significantly more for an unpolished case with honest wear than a case that has been buffed into anonymity.
Originality Over Completeness
Box and papers are valuable and we always want them if you have them. But they are not the primary factor. An original, unserviced dial with all-correct parts commands more than a complete set with a refinished dial. Originality is the foundation. Documentation is the bonus.
Dial Variants Are Everything
On the ref. 1016, the difference between a gilt dial and a matte dial, a chapter ring and no chapter ring, a lollipop or pencil seconds hand — these details separate a $12,000 watch from a $35,000 watch. We know every variant and price them correctly.
We Know the 1655 Marks
MK1 through MK5 dials, four bezel variants, straight versus lollipop seconds hand — the ref. 1655 is a matrix of details, and each combination carries a different value. A MK1 dial with straight seconds hand is among the most collectible configurations in all of vintage Rolex. We recognize it instantly.
The Bracelet and Its End Links
Bracelets are like the picture frame for a piece of fine art. It does not dictate value. The correct President bracelet in matching precious metal, with appropriate patina and minimal stretch, is the ideal accompaniment — but the watch is the work of art. We evaluate the dial and case first. A correct period bracelet (rivet Oysters, folded Oysters, correct end links) adds context and value on top of what the watch already is. 

The Story

From Everest to the Caves — The Explorer's Long Arc

In May 1953, Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary became the first people to stand on the summit of Mount Everest. A Rolex was on the expedition — and within months, Rolex officially named and launched the watch that had accompanied the climb. The Explorer was not a marketing creation or a retroactive tribute. It was a direct consequence of a proven fact: that this watch worked where almost nothing else would.

The pre-Explorer references — ref. 6098 (the prototype that went to Everest), ref. 6298 (the first to carry the 3-6-9 Quarter Arabic dial), ref. 6150, ref. 6350 (the first to officially bear the Explorer name, with the coveted honeycomb/waffle dial variant), and ref. 6610 (the first with the slimmer calibre 1030, ending the bubble-back era) — are among the most collectible pieces in all of vintage Rolex. Each is a chapter in the transition from prototype to icon, and they are priced accordingly. The rarest 6610 of all wears a white dial — the so-called "Albino" — and almost no examples are known to exist.

The ref. 1016 is the purest expression of what a watch can be — nothing added, nothing removed, three decades of refinement aimed at a single purpose.

Then came ref. 1016, introduced around 1960 and produced without interruption until 1989 — twenty-nine years, the longest run of any Explorer reference. It is the watch that defined the collection: 36mm, black dial, smooth bezel, Mercedes hands, 100m water resistance, calibre 1560 (then 1570 from the early 1970s with hacking seconds). Early references featured glossy lacquered dials with gilt printing — warm golden text against the deep black, luminous plots filled first with radium, then tritium. The shift from "SWISS" to "T<SWISS>T" at the dial's base marks the transition. By the late 1960s, Rolex moved to matte black dials with white printed text, producing a different and more utilitarian character. Both are beloved by collectors; gilt dials simply command a steeper premium. Within the 1016 family, the variations multiply: chapter ring and no chapter ring glossy dials, early and late matte variants, the ultra-rare Space-Dweller — produced in extremely limited numbers for Japan to commemorate a NASA Mercury-program visit — which replaces "Explorer" with "Space-Dweller" on the dial and is among the rarest Rolex references in existence. The bracelet evolved too: rivet-link Oysters gave way to folded-link and then solid-link, and some 1016s left the factory on Jubilee bracelets. An original rivet bracelet with the correct period end links tells the same story a box and papers would.

In 1971, Rolex introduced a watch that almost nobody wanted: ref. 1655, the first Explorer II. Designed specifically for speleologists — cave explorers — who needed to distinguish day from night in environments where no natural light penetrated, it featured a fixed 24-hour steel bezel, a bold orange arrow-tipped 24-hour hand (the "Freccione," or big arrow), and calibre 1575. The dial was busy, the hand was unconventional, and the intended buyer was a professional explorer, not a watch enthusiast. Sales were poor. Rolex used the image of Steve McQueen in Italian advertising to boost visibility — and although no evidence exists that McQueen ever owned one, the name stuck permanently. Collectors now call it the "Steve McQueen," and the irony is that exactly the qualities that made it hard to sell — the industrial fixed bezel, the enormous orange hand, the cave-focused 24-hour display — are the qualities that make it extraordinary today. The 1655 went through five dial variants (MK1–MK5, produced by Stern Frères with two later service dials by Beyeler), four bezel configurations, and two seconds hand designs. The MK1 dial with straight seconds hand is the first-year configuration. The MK3 "Rail Dial" — in which the two C's in "Chronometer" and "Certified" on the lower dial are perfectly aligned — is among the most sought collector variants. Production ended in 1985.

The ref. 16550 (1985–1988) marked the transition into the modern era: 40mm case, sapphire crystal, calibre 3085 with a genuinely independent 24-hour hand — now a true dual-time GMT rather than an AM/PM indicator. It introduced the Polar white dial for the first time, and both the black and white dial variants developed desirable paint irregularities: the black dial cracks (the so-called "spider" dial) and the white dial ages into a rich cream — defects that have become among the most prized features in the 16550's collecting narrative. The ref. 16570 followed from 1989 to 2011, with calibre 3185 then 3186, and represents the reference most collectors associate with the modern Explorer II. It is the longest-produced Explorer II, and the Polar dial variant in particular commands consistent collector attention. Later references — the ref. 214270 (2010, 39mm, calibre 3132) and the sapphire-era ref. 14270 (1989) and ref. 114270 (2001) for the Explorer I — complete the transition to the modern era. We purchase all of them.


What We Buy

Every Explorer & Explorer II Reference


Pre-Explorer References
Ref. 6098 · 6298 · 6150 · 6350 · 6610 · c.1952–1963

The references that preceded and produced the Explorer name. Ref. 6098 is the prototype that went to Everest. Ref. 6298 introduced the 3-6-9 Quarter Arabic dial. Ref. 6150 and 6350 are the first to carry the Explorer name — the 6350's honeycomb/waffle dial is among the most collectible early Rolex dial variants in existence, and C.O.S.C.-certified examples are especially prized. Ref. 6610 introduced the slimmer calibre 1030, ended the bubble-back case era, and is available in an extraordinarily rare white "Albino" dial. All pre-Explorer references require deep specialist knowledge to evaluate — they are among the rarest and most expensive vintage Rolex pieces, and condition, originality, and provenance determine value to an extreme degree.

★ Pre-Explorer — Rarest Category · Immediate Purchase
Explorer Ref. 1016 — Gilt Dial
c.1960–c.1967 · Calibre 1560 · Glossy Black Dial · Gold Printing · Radium / Early Tritium

The gilt 1016 is the most coveted configuration in the Explorer's long history. The warm gold-colored text on a deep glossy black lacquer dial, the gentle aging of the luminous plots — pale cream through tropical brown — and the crisp original case geometry of an unpolished example make this one of the great vintage Rolex collecting prizes. Early examples marked "SWISS" at the dial base used radium lume; the transition to "T<SWISS>T" marks the shift to tritium. Chapter ring and no-chapter-ring variants exist in both radium and early tritium periods, creating multiple highly collectible sub-variants. Lug condition, dial originality, and case sharpness are the primary value drivers. We collect these for ourselves and always have demand.

★ Gilt 1016 — We Collect These · Highest Priority
Explorer Ref. 1016 — Matte Dial
c.1967–1989 · Calibre 1570 (hacking from c.1971) · Matte Black Dial · White Printing

The matte 1016 is the more plentiful and — for many collectors — the more wearable daily companion. White printed text on a non-reflective matte black surface, Mercedes hands, calibre 1570 with hacking seconds from the early 1970s. The earliest matte dials have a "frog foot" coronet logo and slightly billowy tritium; later dials have a more refined crown. The bracelet evolution mirrors the production timeline: rivet-link Oysters on earlier examples, folded-link and eventually solid-link on later ones. All configurations of the matte 1016 are actively purchased. An original, unpolished late-production 1016 with correct bracelet and original crown is an extraordinary daily-wear vintage Rolex at any price.

★ Matte 1016 — All Variants Actively Purchased
Space-Dweller — Ref. 1016 (Japan Exclusive)
c.1963 · "SPACE-DWELLER" dial text · Extremely Rare · Japan Market Only

The Space-Dweller is one of the rarest Rolex references in existence. Produced in extremely limited quantities for the Japanese market to commemorate a visit by NASA Mercury-program astronauts to Japan, it is a ref. 1016 in every mechanical respect — but the dial reads "SPACE-DWELLER" where "EXPLORER" would otherwise appear. Very few examples have ever come to market anywhere in the world, and those with documented provenance are in a category of their own. If you own or have access to a Space-Dweller, please contact us directly before approaching any other buyer. We have maintained a standing list of buyers for this reference for years.

★ Space-Dweller — Contact Us Immediately
Explorer II Ref. 1655 — "The McQueen" / "Freccione"
1971–1985 · Calibre 1575 · 39mm · MK1–MK5 Dials · Fixed 24-Hour Bezel · Orange Arrow Hand

The ref. 1655 is the first Explorer II and one of the great cult watches in all of vintage Rolex collecting. It was designed for speleologists, sold poorly, gained a celebrity association that was never actually real, and has since become one of the most sought references the brand ever produced — precisely because of its commercial failure and the rarity that failure created. The MK1 Stern dial with straight seconds hand, correct matching MK1 bezel, and original orange arrow hand at full saturation is the first-year configuration and the pinnacle of the reference. The MK3 "Rail Dial" — distinguished by the precise alignment of the C's in "Chronometer" and "Certified" — is the most obsessively collected variant. We know every combination, every dial mark, every bezel variant. We always have buyers for every configuration of the 1655.

★ Ref. 1655 — All Marks Purchased · MK1 & Rail Dial Highest Priority
Explorer II Ref. 16550 — Transitional
1985–1988 · Calibre 3085 · 40mm · Sapphire Crystal · Black or Polar White Dial

The ref. 16550 is the transitional Explorer II: bigger, modern, and the first with a genuinely independent 24-hour hand — a true GMT capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously rather than merely indicating AM or PM. Sapphire crystal replaced acrylic. The white "Polar" dial appeared for the first time. Both the black and Polar dials are known for desirable aging anomalies: the black dial develops a "spider" cracking pattern caused by a paint defect, and the white dial ages into a rich cream. Neither defect reduces value — both dramatically increase it. The 16550 had a short production window and is significantly rarer than the 16570 that followed. All configurations are purchased; aged cream Polar dials and "spider" black dials command meaningful premiums.

★ Ref. 16550 — Short Run · Spider & Cream Polars Especially Sought
Explorer II Ref. 16570 — The Classic
1989–2011 · Calibre 3185 / 3186 · 40mm · Black or Polar White Dial

The ref. 16570 is the Explorer II most people picture when they think of the collection. Twenty-two years of production made it the longest-lived Explorer II reference. Calibre 3185 served the early years; calibre 3186 with Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers arrived later. The Polar white dial remains the most in-demand configuration. Dial and bracelet originality, absence of polishing, and correct end links are the primary value factors. Full-set 16570s with original bracelet and correct end links are increasingly difficult to find and command premiums. All 16570 configurations are actively purchased.

★ Ref. 16570 — All Configurations Purchased · Polar Dial Priority
Explorer I Ref. 14270 · 114270 & Explorer II Ref. 214270
Ref. 14270 (1989–2001) · 114270 (2001–2010) · 214270 (2010–2016) · 36mm / 39mm

The sapphire-crystal era Explorer I references represent the bridge between the classic 1016 and the modern collection. Ref. 14270 introduced white gold surrounds on the dial indices; ref. 114270 updated the movement to calibre 3130. The "Blackout" variant of the 14270 — in which the surrounds on the hour markers appear to have darkened significantly over time — has become a dedicated collector's target. The ref. 214270 Explorer I (39mm, calibre 3132) is the only Explorer ever made in 39mm and is now discontinued, making both the MK1 and MK2 increasingly collectible. All references are purchased. For those focused exclusively on the vintage era, the 14270 and 114270 represent accessible entry points with strong collector following.

★ Sapphire-Era Refs — All Configurations Purchased

Request a Private Explorer Evaluation

Tell us about your watch. For rare references — gilt 1016, Space-Dweller, MK1 or Rail Dial 1655 — a call is always faster. (631) 400-9800.

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Thank You

We've received your inquiry and will respond with a serious assessment. For rare pieces, calling directly is always fastest: (631) 400-9800.


Complete Reference Directory

Every Vintage Explorer Reference


A comprehensive index of Explorer and Explorer II references from 1952 to 2016. Search by reference number, dial variant, serial range, caliber, nickname, or any other detail.

No references match your search. Call us at (631) 400-9800 — we purchase references not listed here as well.
Pre-Explorer — Ref. 6098 / 6298 / 6150 / 6350 / 6610 8 References
Ref. 6098
Pre-Explorer "Ovettone" · Monobloc case · A296 movement · "Everest" dial (closed minute track, no 3-6-9)
c.1952–1953 · Provided to Everest expedition · White or matte dial · "Super Oyster" push-in crown (no screw-down)
Everest Expedition Watch — Rarest Pre-Explorer
Ref. 6298
Pre-Explorer · Three-piece case (improved over 6098 monobloc) · A296 · New screw-down "Brevet+" crown
c.1953 · Carried "Everest" dial; some examples have 3-6-9 honeycomb dials · Major structural improvement over 6098 with waterproof screw-down crown
Key Pre-Explorer — Improved Case Architecture
Ref. 6150
Pre-Explorer · Bubble-Back · A296 · Radium lume
c.1953–1955 · Early "Explorer" text on some examples
Ref. 6350 — Standard
First official "Explorer" name · A296 · C.O.S.C. certified examples
c.1954–1959 · Black lacquer dial · Radium lume · "EXPLORER" dial text
First "Explorer" Name
Ref. 6350 — Honeycomb / Waffle Dial
6350 with rare textured dial · Extremely rare · Most collectible 6350
Honeycomb guilloche dial surface · Top-tier collector variant
Honeycomb Dial — Highest Value 6350
Ref. 6610 — Standard Black Dial
Cal. 1030 · Slim case back (no bubble) · Black lacquer · Radium
c.1959–1963 · "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER" text · Ends bubble-back era
End of Bubble-Back Era
Ref. 6610 — Red Depth Text
6610 with water-resistance depth inscription in red printing
Rare early variant · Red "200ft=60m" text on dial
Rare — Red Text Variant
Ref. 6610 — White "Albino" Dial
6610 with white dial · Extremely rare · Fewer than a handful known
Cal. 1030 · White dial with black printing · Among rarest Explorer variants
Albino — Rarest 6610
Explorer Ref. 1016 — Gilt Dial (c.1963–c.1967) 8 References
1016 — Glossy / Chapter Ring / "SWISS" (Radium)
Earliest 1016 · Radium lume · Chapter ring · Cal. 1560
c.1963–c.1965 · "SWISS" at 6 o'clock · Pencil seconds hand · 18,000vph
Earliest 1016 — Highest Premium
1016 — Glossy / No Chapter Ring / "SWISS" (Radium)
Gilt glossy · No chapter ring · Radium · Cal. 1560
c.1963–c.1965 · Cleaner dial layout without minute chapter
1016 — Glossy / Chapter Ring / "SWISS" (Transitional)
Gilt glossy · Chapter ring · Transitional radium/tritium · Cal. 1560
c.1963–c.1965 · Small dot under 6 (transitional lume marker)
1016 — Glossy / No Chapter Ring / Transitional
Gilt glossy · No chapter ring · Transitional lume · Cal. 1560
c.1963–c.1965
1016 — Glossy / Chapter Ring / "T SWISS T" (Tritium)
Late gilt glossy · Chapter ring · Confirmed tritium · Cal. 1560
c.1965–c.1967 · "T SWISS T" or "SWISS T<25" at 6 o'clock
1016 — Glossy / No Chapter Ring / "T SWISS T"
Late gilt glossy · No chapter ring · Confirmed tritium · Cal. 1560
c.1965–c.1967
1016 — Glossy / Lollipop Seconds
Glossy gilt · Lollipop / bubble seconds hand (luminous dot)
Later glossy production · Some examples with chapter ring, some without
1016 — Glossy on Jubilee Bracelet
Gilt 1016 on factory or dealer-fitted Jubilee bracelet
Rare configuration · Some factory, some dealer-fitted · 50 or 550 end links
Rare — Jubilee Bracelet
Space-Dweller — Ref. 1016 (Japan Exclusive, c.1963) 1 Reference
Ref. 1016 — "SPACE-DWELLER"
Japan exclusive · "SPACE-DWELLER" replaces "EXPLORER" on dial · Produced for the Japanese market; the precise reason for the alternate name remains debated among collectors
c.1963 · Cal. 1560 · Extremely limited production · Fewer than a handful of confirmed examples known worldwide
Rarest Explorer Variant — Contact Us Immediately
Explorer Ref. 1016 — Matte Dial (c.1967–1989) 6 References
1016 — Early Matte · "Frog Foot" Coronet
First matte 1016 · Distinctive crown logo · Cal. 1560
c.1967–c.1971 · "Frog Foot" crown / coronet shape · Rivet or folded-link Oyster bracelet
Early Matte — Most Collectible Matte Variant
1016 — Matte · Cal. 1570 (Non-Hacking)
Matte 1016 · Early Cal. 1570 · Non-hacking seconds
c.1969–c.1971 · Transition period · Some rivet Oyster bracelets remaining
1016 — Matte · Cal. 1570 Hacking
Matte 1016 · Cal. 1570 with hacking seconds · Folded-link Oyster
c.1971–c.1982 · Mid-production · Most commonly available 1016 configuration
1016 — Matte · Late Production · Solid-Link Oyster
Late matte 1016 · Solid-link 78360 Oyster bracelet · Cal. 1570
c.1982–1989 · 580 end links · N/R serial range
1016 — Matte · R-Series (c.1987–1989)
Final production 1016 · R-series serial · Cal. 1570
Last years of production · Clean, crisp late-production dials · 78360 bracelet
1016 — Matte on Jubilee Bracelet
Matte 1016 on Jubilee bracelet (factory or dealer-fitted)
Less common than Oyster configuration · 50 or 550 end links
Explorer II Ref. 1655 — "Freccione" / "Steve McQueen" (1971–1985) 9 References
1655 — MK1 Dial / Straight Seconds Hand
First-year 1655 · MK1 Stern dial · Straight needle seconds · MK1 bezel
c.1971–c.1972 · Wide coronet, rounded R foot · Cal. 1575 · ~2.5–3.0M serial
First-Year Config — Pinnacle of the 1655
1655 — MK1 Dial / Lollipop Seconds
MK1 Stern dial · Luminous bubble seconds hand · MK1 or MK2 bezel
c.1972–c.1974 · Cal. 1575 · Most common early 1655 configuration
1655 — MK2 Dial ("Frog Foot")
MK2 Stern dial · Splayed coronet / "Frog Foot" crown · Heavier dot tips
c.1974–c.1975 · Cal. 1575 · MK2 or MK3 bezel
1655 — MK3 "Rail Dial"
Rail Dial · C's in "Chronometer" and "Certified" perfectly aligned
c.1975–c.1977 · Most obsessively collected 1655 dial variant · Cal. 1575
Rail Dial — Most Collected 1655 Variant
1655 — MK4 Dial
MK4 Stern dial · Narrower coronet · Larger base oval opening
c.1977–c.1980 · Cal. 1575 · MK3 or MK4 bezel
1655 — MK5 Dial
MK5 Stern dial · Final production Stern dial · Thin-font bezel numerals
c.1980–c.1984 · Cal. 1575 · MK4 bezel with "long hook" 1s
1655 — Service Dial (Beyeler) Type 1
Beyeler-produced service replacement dial · Narrower coronet · No serif font at 6
Available post-production for service purposes · "T SWISS < 25 T" at base
Service Dial — Reduces Value Significantly
1655 — Service Dial (Beyeler) Type 2
Second Beyeler service replacement dial variant
Post-production service stock · Important to identify correctly in valuation
Service Dial — Reduces Value Significantly
1655 — Full Set (Box & Papers)
Any 1655 Mk variant with original box and papers
Any Mark — full set commands meaningful premium · Extremely rare to find
Full Set — Significant Premium
Explorer II Ref. 16550 — Transitional (1985–1988) 4 References
16550 — Black Dial · Standard
Black dial · Cal. 3085 · True GMT · 40mm · Sapphire crystal
1985–1988 · Grew from 39mm (1655) to 40mm · First Explorer II with independently adjustable 24h hand (true GMT)
16550 — Black Dial "Spider"
Black dial with paint-defect cracking ("spider" pattern) · Cal. 3085
Paint defect on black lacquer creates distinctive cracked pattern
Spider Dial — Collector Premium
16550 — White Polar Dial · Standard
White Polar dial · Cal. 3085 · First Polar dial in Explorer II history
1985–1988 · Clean white dial without aging patina
First-Ever Polar Dial
16550 — White Polar Dial · Aged Cream
Polar dial with paint-defect cream/ivory aging patina · Cal. 3085
Paint defect produces warm cream / ivory tone over time
Aged Cream Polar — Highest-Value 16550
Explorer II Ref. 16570 (1989–2011) 6 References
16570 — Black Dial · Cal. 3185 · Tritium
Early 16570 · Black dial · Tritium lume · Cal. 3185
1989–c.1998 · "T SWISS T" / "T<25" · No black surrounds on markers (very early)
16570 — White Polar · Cal. 3185 · Tritium
Early 16570 · Polar dial · Tritium · Cal. 3185
1989–c.1998 · Most sought early 16570 configuration
Most Collected Early 16570
16570 — Black Dial · Cal. 3185 · LumiNova
Mid 16570 · Black dial · LumiNova/Super-LumiNova · Cal. 3185
c.1998–c.2005 · "SWISS MADE" at dial base
16570 — White Polar · Cal. 3185 · LumiNova
Mid 16570 · Polar dial · LumiNova · Cal. 3185
c.1998–c.2005
16570 — Black Dial · Cal. 3186 (Parachrom)
Late 16570 · Black dial · Cal. 3186 · Parachrom hairspring · Paraflex
c.2005–2011 · Engraved Rolex rehaut · Super-LumiNova
16570 — White Polar · Cal. 3186 (Parachrom)
Late 16570 · Polar dial · Cal. 3186 · Parachrom hairspring
c.2005–2011 · Engraved rehaut · Final production 16570
Final Polar Dial — Strong Demand
Explorer II Ref. 216570 (2011–2021) 4 References
216570 — Black Dial · Orange Freccione
Explorer II · 42mm · Cal. 3187 · Revived orange Freccione hand · Chromalight · True GMT
2011–2021 · 40th anniversary · Paraflex · First 42mm Explorer II · Engraved rehaut
Revived Freccione — 40th Anniversary
216570 — White Polar · Orange Freccione
Explorer II · 42mm · Cal. 3187 · Polar dial · Orange Freccione hand
2011–2021 · Most collected 216570 configuration · Strong secondary demand
Polar 216570 — Most Collected
216570 — Late Production (c.2017–2021)
Later 216570 · Solid end-links · Updated finishing
Solid end-links replace earlier hollow · ±2 sec/day Superlative Chronometer (post-2015)
216570 — Full Set
Any 216570 variant with original box and papers
Full set commands meaningful premium · Increasingly collected post-discontinuation
Full Set — Premium
Explorer II Ref. 226570 (2021–Present) 2 References
226570 — Black Dial · Orange Freccione
Explorer II · 42mm · Cal. 3285 · Chronergy escapement · 70h power reserve · Oystersteel
2021–present · Watches & Wonders 2021 · Parachrom · Paraflex · ±2 sec/day · True GMT
Current Production · Cal. 3285
226570 — White Polar · Orange Freccione
Explorer II · 42mm · Cal. 3285 · Polar dial · Orange Freccione hand · Chromalight
2021–present · Most collected current Explorer II · Strong demand both new and pre-owned
Current Production · Polar Most Sought
Explorer I Ref. 14270 / 114270 / 214270 / 124270 / 224270 (1989–present) 9 References
14270 — Tritium · White Gold Surrounds
First sapphire-era Explorer I · White gold surrounds on indices · Cal. 3000
1989–c.1994 · Tritium lume · 36mm · "T SWISS T" at base
14270 — "Blackout" (Darkened Surrounds)
14270 with darkened / blackened white gold surrounds on hour markers
Aging oxidation darkens surrounds · Distinctive collector variant
Blackout — Dedicated Collector Following
14270 — LumiNova
Later 14270 · LumiNova lume · Cal. 3000
c.1997–2001 · "SWISS MADE" at base · Clean modern look
114270 — Cal. 3130
Updated 14270 · New calibre 3130 · Slightly thicker case · 36mm
2001–2010 · Super-LumiNova · 0.5mm thicker than 14270
214270 MK1 — Explorer I 39mm
Explorer I · 39mm · Cal. 3132 · Black dial only · Non-lumed 3-6-9 numerals · Short hands
2010–2016 · Parachrom hairspring · Paraflex · Short hands criticized for under-reaching minute track
MK1 — Short Hands · Future Collectible
214270 MK2 — Explorer I 39mm
Explorer I · 39mm · Cal. 3132 · Full-lume 3-6-9 numerals · Longer hands
2016–2021 · Hands corrected for proper reach · Chromalight lume on all markers · Engraved rehaut · Most collected 214270
MK2 — Preferred Config · Discontinued 2021
124270 — Explorer I 36mm
Explorer I · 36mm · Cal. 3230 · Return to classic size · Chromalight · Easylink bracelet
2021–present · Chronergy escapement · 70h power reserve · First 36mm Explorer with Easylink · Oystersteel only
Current Production · Cal. 3230
124273 — Explorer I 36mm Rolesor
Explorer I · 36mm · Cal. 3230 · Two-tone Oystersteel/18k Yellow Gold · Yellow gold centre bracelet links and 3-6-9 numerals
2021–present · First-ever two-tone Explorer · Oystersteel outer bracelet links / yellow gold centres · Cal. 3230 · 70h
First Two-Tone Explorer — Current Production
224270 — Explorer I 40mm
Explorer I · 40mm · Cal. 3230 · First 40mm Explorer · Larger case for larger wrists
2023–present · Watches & Wonders 2023 · Same dial as 124270 · Cal. 3230 · 70h power reserve · Oystersteel only
Current Production · First 40mm Explorer

Why Glenn Bradford

The Glenn Bradford Difference


Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry has been buying and selling investment-grade watches from Southampton for more than forty years. In that time we have built something that no algorithm and no auction estimate can replicate: a genuine understanding of what serious collectors are actually looking for, what they are willing to pay, and why certain watches command premiums that published guides consistently understate. When you bring us a watch, you are speaking with someone who has handled thousands of pieces across every major brand and complication — and who tracks the secondary market not as a hobby but as a profession.

That depth of knowledge matters most at the edges of the market, where condition details, production variants, and provenance can move a price by tens of thousands of dollars. We know which dial configurations are genuinely rare versus merely underappreciated. We know what service history does and does not affect value for a given reference. We know which collectors are actively seeking what — and when you sell or consign through us, your watch reaches the buyer who values it most accurately rather than the first buyer who happens to respond to a listing.

The first conversation is always private, always free of charge, and never obligates you to sell. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally, and we are as comfortable evaluating a single watch as we are working through an entire collection. Whatever your situation — an inheritance, a portfolio adjustment, a single piece you are ready to part with — bring it to us first. We will tell you honestly what it is worth and what the right path forward looks like.


Frequently Asked

Common Questions


Can I sell my Explorer if I'm not local to Southampton?+

Yes. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally. Submit your piece through the form above with clear photographs of the case, dial, caseback, crown, bracelet, and any paperwork. We will provide a preliminary assessment promptly and can arrange fully insured shipping or a private appointment at our Southampton flagship boutique — whatever is most convenient for you.


Begin the Conversation


Ready to Sell Your
Vintage Explorer?

Reach us by phone, email, or through the form above. Private consultations available in Southampton.