Sell Your Rolex Submariner Watch | Expert Buyer in the Hamptons, New York | Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry · Southampton & New York
Sell Your
Rolex Submariner.
From the 1953 Turn-O-Graph that started it all — the first ratchet bezel that begat every tool watch Rolex ever made — to the current 126610LV Starbucks. Vintage specialists with a deep passion for the watches that built the legend.
Vintage Specialists
Kermit Collectors
Every Reference Purchased
Gilt · Tropical · Ghost Bezel
1953
Turn-O-Graph / First Submariner
Kermit
Our Personal Collecting Passion
40 Yrs
GBFJ Collector Experience
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What We Purchase
Every Submariner, Every Era
The Turn-O-Graph — Ref. 6202
1953 only · Cal. 1030 · 36mm · Steel, Rolesor, Gold · The Pre-Submariner
Before there was a Submariner, there was the Turn-O-Graph. Released at Baselworld in 1953 — the same year the Submariner debuted — the ref. 6202 was the first serially produced Rolex with a rotating ratchet bezel. That single innovation changed the entire trajectory of the brand. The ratchet bezel was adopted directly by the Submariner, the GMT-Master, the Milgauss, and the Sea-Dweller. Produced for one year only, surviving examples are extraordinarily rare. The 6202 also pioneered Rolesor (two-tone steel and gold) in the Rolex lineup — a concept the market wasn't ready for until two-tone tool watches became standard two decades later. An essential piece of horological history and the alpha model of Rolex's golden era.
Proto-Era Big Crowns — Refs. 6204, 6205, 6200, 6538, 5510
1953–1960 · Cal. A260 / 1030 / 1530 · 37–38mm · Pre-Crown Guard
The earliest Submariners are among the rarest objects in watchmaking. The 6204 and 6205 are debated as the "first" — both introduced at Basel 1954, neither with crown guards. The 6200 carries the 8mm Big Crown and the rare 3-6-9 Explorer-style dial. The 6538 — the James Bond watch from Dr. No, worn by Sean Connery — is among the most iconic objects in watch collecting, with values exceeding $200,000 for fine examples. The 5510 was produced for only one to two years, with an estimated 400–600 examples made total. The 5508 was the last small-crown, no-crown-guard Sub. All feature gilt printing on glossy black dials; early examples used radium lume. All purchased at full collector premiums.
Ref. 5512 — The Chronometer Submariner
1959–1980 · Cal. 1530 / 1560 / 1570 · 40mm · Steel only · COSC-Certified
The blueprint for the modern Submariner — 40mm case with crown guards, first appearing in 1959. The 5512 introduced pointed crown guards (PCG) in the earliest examples, transitioning to rounded (RCG) around 1964. Dial evolution across its 21-year run produced some of the most avidly collected variants in all of vintage Rolex: gilt two-liner, Exclamation dial, Underline dial, four-liner Meters First, matte Feet First, and the late Maxi "Lollipop" dial. The chronometer designation means a four-line dial once COSC-certified movements arrived. Only ~17,000 produced vs. ~151,000 5513s — significant rarity. Explorer dial examples (made for the UK market from excess blanks) are exceptionally rare. Purchased across all dial configurations with full appreciation of each variant's specific collector premium.
Ref. 5513 — The Definitive Vintage Submariner
1962–1989 · Cal. 1520 / 1530 · 40mm · Steel only · Non-COSC
The 5513 is the watch that most collectors think of when they say "vintage Submariner." Twenty-seven years of production created an enormous range of variants: the early gilt Explorer dial (3-6-9 Arabic numerals; one of the rarest Rolex watches), PCG gilt two-liners, matte Meters First, matte Feet First, and the Maxi "Lollipop" final generation. The MilSub — issued to the British Royal Navy with sword hands, fixed lug bars, encircled T, and a fully graduated bezel — is produced in three related references (5513, double-stamped 5513/5517, and 5517) with approximately 1,110 total examples, of which only ~300 are known to exist today. COMEX diving versions with helium escape valves (5514) also fall within this family. Each variant understood and priced accordingly.
Ref. 1680 — The Red and White Submariner
1969–1979 · Cal. 1575 · 40mm · Steel & 18k Gold (1680/8)
The first Submariner with a date — introduced circa 1969 after the Sea-Dweller had already established the format for professional divers. The earliest 1680 dials carry the word "Submariner" printed in red across four lines — the "Red Sub" — and are among the most coveted vintage Rolex date references. Meters First early examples are the most valuable. The transition to white text (White Sub) occurred around 1973. The 1680 is also the first Submariner offered in precious metal, with the 1680/8 in 18k yellow gold. COMEX-signed 1680 dials represent a rare sub-category. Purchased across all configurations with particular attention to originality of dial text and color.
Refs. 16800 / 168000 — Transitional Era
1979–1989 · Cal. 3035 · 40mm · Steel, Gold, Two-Tone
The 16800 brought a sapphire crystal (replacing acrylic), 300m water resistance, and the high-beat Cal. 3035 at 28,800vph — the first Submariner to reach that frequency. The 16808 in 18k gold and the 16803 (first-ever two-tone Rolesor Submariner, introduced 1984) complete the family. The 168000 — produced for only approximately nine months in 1988–89 — is the first Submariner in 904L steel, the alloy now used across Rolex's entire stainless steel catalog. Short production makes it notably rarer than the 16800 it preceded and the 16610 it gave way to. All purchased with recognition of the 168000's transitional significance.
Ref. 16610 — The Last Aluminum Bezel
1989–2010 · Cal. 3135 · 40mm · Steel, Gold (16618), Rolesor (16613)
Often called "the last of the best" — the final Submariner with an aluminum bezel insert, classic proportions, and the highly regarded Cal. 3135. The 16610LV Kermit (2003–2010) was the first green Submariner, introduced for the collection's 50th anniversary and named for its black-dial / green-aluminum-bezel combination. Within the Kermit, the critical collector distinction is Flat 4 vs. Sharp 4: early Y-serial and F-serial examples (2003–2004) carry a bezel insert with a flat-topped "4" at the 40-minute marker — the Flat 4 — which commands a significant premium over the later Sharp 4 production. The 16613 Serti variant with a gemstone-set dial is a rare collector piece. The No-Date references 14060 and 14060M run parallel to the date versions. The 16610 has become a benchmark for the collector who wants the pure Submariner formula before the Super Case arrived. All steel, gold, and Rolesor variants purchased.
Refs. 116610 / 114060 — Ceramic Super Case
2010–2020 · Cal. 3135 / 3130 · 40mm · Cerachrom Bezel
The introduction of the Cerachrom ceramic bezel and the Maxi Case (thicker lugs and crown guards) marked a generational shift. The 116610LV "Hulk" — green Cerachrom bezel with a matching green sunray dial — became one of the most talked-about modern sport Rolexes and now commands significant secondary market premiums following its 2020 discontinuation. The 116619LB "Smurf" — the first white gold Submariner, with an all-blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel — is among the rarest and most collectible references in this generation, discontinued in 2020 after a 12-year run. The 116618LB in 18k yellow gold with a blue ceramic bezel is a striking configuration. The 114060 No-Date in this generation is considered by many to be the purest modern Submariner expression. All variants, metals, and bezel colors purchased.
Refs. 126610 / 124060 — Current Generation
2020–present · Cal. 3235 / 3230 · 41mm · All metals & colors
The 2020 generation brought a 41mm case, slimmed lugs (departing the Maxi Case), and the new Cal. 3235 / 3230 with a 70-hour power reserve and Chronergy escapement. The 126610LV (known as "Starbucks" or "Cermit") returned to the green-bezel / black-dial formula of the original Kermit, pairing it with a Cerachrom insert. The 126619LB in white gold with blue ceramic is the "Cookie Monster." The 124060 No-Date is among the most in-demand modern Submariners. All current references across steel, Rolesor, and gold purchased at strong secondary market rates.
Gem-Set, Special Order & Precious Metal
Diamond bezels · Diamond cases & bracelets · Gem-set dials · Ultra-rare configurations
Gem-set Submariners represent the apex of the collection's value. Diamond-set bezels, full-pavé cases and bracelets, stone-set dials (including the Serti variants), and special-order precious metal configurations all purchased with full awareness of their exceptional collector value and significant replacement cost. These pieces require careful assessment and we welcome detailed photographs and provenance documentation.
Collector's Nickname Guide
Every Submariner Nickname, Explained
JB
James Bond
6538 (Sean Connery, Dr. No, 1962)
Sean Connery wore a ref. 6538 Big Crown in the first four Bond films. The 6538 is widely reported to have been producer Albert "Cubby" Broccoli's personal watch, lent to Connery for filming. The cultural association transformed the Submariner from a dive tool into a global icon. Values for fine 6538 examples exceed $200,000.
BC
Big Crown
6200 · 6538 · 6538A · 5510
Any early Submariner fitted with an oversized 8mm crown, designed so that divers in thick gloves could operate it underwater. The term "Big Crown" is nearly synonymous with "James Bond Sub" in collector shorthand. The 5510 is the rarest Big Crown — only ~400–600 were ever produced.
Bart Simpson
5512 · 5513 (early 1960s gilt dial)
Early gilt-dial 5512 and 5513 examples feature a golden Rolex coronet (crown logo) at 12 o'clock that collectors feel resembles the spiky hair of the cartoon character. A light nickname for one of the most serious categories of vintage Submariner collecting.
RS
Red Sub
1680 (earliest production; ~1969–73)
The first Submariner Date printed "Submariner" in red across the dial's four text lines. Among the most coveted vintage Submariner Date references. Meters First examples are most valuable. When Rolex switched to white text around 1973, the original red examples acquired immediate collector premiums that have only grown with time.
MS
MilSub
5513 · 5513/5517 · 5517 (British Royal Navy; ~1971–75)
Military Submariner issued to the British Royal Navy. Distinguishing features: sword hands, fixed (non-removable) lug bars for NATO strap, a large encircled T on the dial indicating tritium lume, and a fully graduated 60-minute bezel. Three related references produced approximately 1,110 total examples, of which roughly 300 are known today. A holy grail of vintage watch collecting.
CX
COMEX
5513 · 5514 · 1680 (COMEX-signed dials)
Issued exclusively to divers employed by the French saturation diving company COMEX — never sold to the public. The COMEX name appears on the dial. The 5514 and COMEX 5513 variants include a helium escape valve for saturation diving. 1680 COMEX examples lack the HEV but were issued to COMEX office personnel. All are extraordinarily rare and command significant premiums.
K
Kermit
16610LV (2003–2010; 50th Anniversary)
The first Submariner with a green bezel, released in 2003 for the collection's 50th anniversary. The combination of green aluminum bezel and black dial reminded the collecting community of Kermit the Frog's large black-and-white eyes surrounded by green. Our personal passion — we collect Kermits and know every production variation across its seven-year run. The most significant collector distinction within the reference is the Flat 4 vs. Sharp 4 bezel insert. On early Y-serial and F-serial examples (2003–2004), the numeral "4" at the 40-minute marker has a flat top — the coveted Flat 4. Later production shifted to a pointed Sharp 4. A Flat 4 Kermit in unpolished condition with original papers can command a meaningful premium over a standard Sharp 4 example — sometimes thousands of dollars — and is the configuration serious collectors seek first.
H
Hulk
116610LV (2010–2020)
Named for its all-green profile — green Cerachrom bezel paired with a green sunray-brushed dial — and its imposing Maxi Case proportions. The Hulk was initially polarizing among purists but became one of the most in-demand modern Rolex sport watches. Its 2020 discontinuation sent secondary market values significantly higher. Now a serious collector reference in its own right.
SM
Smurf
116619LB (White Gold, Blue Ceramic + Blue Dial, 2008–2020)
The first-ever white gold Submariner, introduced in 2008 alongside Rolex's 100th anniversary. The vivid lacquered blue dial paired with a matching blue Cerachrom bezel on a white gold case immediately reminded collectors of the all-blue cartoon characters — the nickname stuck instantly. The Smurf was the most expensive standard Submariner in the lineup at retail and was produced for 12 years before its 2020 discontinuation. Its successor, the 126619LB, carries a black dial and is known instead as the Cookie Monster. A true Smurf — blue dial, blue bezel, white gold — is the only one; condition and completeness matter significantly on the secondary market.
SB
Starbucks
126610LV (2020–present)
The 126610LV's combination of green Cerachrom bezel and black dial closely resembles the Starbucks logo, earning it the most widely used nickname. Also called "Cermit" (Ceramic + Kermit) by some collectors. The return to the green/black Kermit formula with a modern ceramic bezel and new Cal. 3235 movement makes it the most technically advanced green Submariner to date.
Cookie Monster
126619LB (White Gold, Blue Ceramic, Black Dial)
The white gold Submariner Date with a blue Cerachrom bezel and black dial. The blue-and-black color contrast on the white gold case reminded collectors of the Cookie Monster's wide blue-and-black eyes. A standout among current-generation precious metal Submariners. The 126613LB in Rolesor (two-tone) with blue ceramic carries the same association informally.
LL
Lollipop
5512 / 5513 (late Maxi Dial; ~1977–89)
Late-production 5512 and 5513 examples with the enlarged "Maxi" dial — oversized, generously lumed hour plots. The size of the circular lume plots relative to the dial reminded collectors of lollipops. These are the last and most modern-looking vintage Subs before the five-digit era began.
ND
No-Date
14060 · 14060M · 114060 · 124060
The clean, symmetrical dial without a date window — the original Submariner formula maintained by Rolex alongside the date versions since the 1960s. The No-Date is beloved by purists for its perfectly balanced dial architecture. The 114060 and 124060 with their Cerachrom bezels are highly sought by collectors who consider the dateless Submariner the purest expression of the design.
G
Ghost Bezel
Any vintage aluminum-insert Submariner
A vintage Submariner bezel insert that has faded — through years of UV exposure and wear — to the point where the markings are nearly invisible, leaving only a faint impression. Ghost bezels are a specific and prized patina condition among serious collectors. Not a flaw: a genuine, irreproducible record of the watch's life.
T
Tropical
Any vintage dial with brown oxidation (5512 · 5513 · 1680 · etc.)
A dial that has shifted from its original black or dark color to a warm brown or caramel tone through natural chemical oxidation over decades. Tropical dials — particularly on gilt-era 5512 and 5513 references — are among the most aggressively premiumed conditions in all of vintage Rolex collecting. No two are alike.
Collector's Vocabulary
Vintage Dial & Case Variations Explained
The vocabulary of vintage Submariner collecting is precise — and the differences between dial variants, crown guard styles, and lume types can represent tens of thousands of dollars in value. We know every one.
Gilt Dial
Dials with gold (gilt) printed text on a glossy lacquered black surface. Produced from the earliest Submariners through approximately 1965–66 on the 5512 and 5513. Gilt dials glow warmly under light and represent the most desirable vintage Submariner dial type. Gold lume plots surround the hour markers on chapter-ring examples.
Exclamation Point Dial
A gilt dial on the 5512 (and some 5513) where the lume plot below the 6 o'clock marker appears as an elongated "!" shape rather than a standard round dot. Found on pointed-crown-guard examples from approximately 1960–63. Among the most prized of all Submariner dial configurations. The exclamation point is a specific marker era, not a defect.
Underline Dial
During the transitional period when Rolex switched from radium to tritium luminous material (~1963–64), remaining stocks of radium-lumed dials were marked with an underline beneath "Swiss" at the bottom of the dial — a code to watchmakers indicating the watch contained safer tritium lume and could be serviced normally. Underline dials are a specific and collectable transitional configuration.
Matte Dial
Introduced around 1965–66, replacing the glossy gilt lacquered surface with a flat matte black finish and white printed text. The shift from gilt to matte marks the transition to a distinctly different aesthetic — more tool watch, less jewelry. Matte dials cover the majority of the 5512 and 5513's production run and produced their own sub-variants including Meters First and Feet First configurations.
Meters First
Early Submariners (and GMT-Masters) printed depth ratings with meters first: "200m = 660ft." Around 1969, Rolex reversed this to "660ft = 200m" (Feet First) to appeal to the American market. A Meters First matte dial on a 5512 or 5513 dates the watch to approximately 1965–69 and commands a meaningful premium over the more common Feet First examples.
Chapter Ring
An inner ring on early gilt-dial Submariners — typically a gold-toned ring surrounding the hour markers. Seen on early 5512 and some 6538 examples. Chapter ring dials are among the rarest and most collectible of all Submariner dial configurations and are typically found only on pre-1963 pointed-crown-guard examples.
PCG — Pointed Crown Guards
The earliest crown guard style on the 5512 and 5513 (through ~1964) features sharply pointed, pyramid-shaped shoulders flanking the crown. Highly distinctive and immediately identifiable, PCG examples represent the most desirable crown guard style in vintage Submariner collecting. Also called "Eagle Beak" guards for their aggressive profile.
RCG — Rounded Crown Guards
The softer, rounded crown guard shape introduced around 1964, which became the standard for the remainder of the 5512 and 5513 production run. RCG examples are more common than PCG but span the majority of the vintage Submariner collecting universe.
2-Liner vs. 4-Liner
Refers to the number of text lines on the dial below 12 o'clock. A 2-liner has "Rolex / Oyster Perpetual"; a 4-liner adds "Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified." On the 5512, early examples were 2-liners before COSC certification was added. The 5513 was always a 2-liner. On the 5512, a 2-liner commands a premium for its rarity relative to 4-liner examples.
Maxi Dial ("Lollipop")
The enlarged, late-production dial seen on the final years of the 5512 (to 1980) and 5513 (to 1989) — with oversized, generously proportioned lume plots. The Maxi dial also appeared on early 16800 references and was later codified as the standard for the modern Submariner. Late 5513 Maxi dials are the most recent vintage expressions and bridge the gap to the five-digit era.
Radium vs. Tritium Lume
Early Submariners used radium-based luminous paint — highly radioactive and now regulated. The switch to tritium (marked with a "T" or "T<25" on the dial) occurred around 1963–65. Tritium dials age to warm cream or caramel tones, which collectors prize. SuperLuminova (SLN) replaced tritium in the mid-1990s and does not age the same way.
Red Sub Dial Variations
The 1680 Red Sub exists in multiple dial configurations: Meters First (rarest; most valuable), Feet First, and transitional white-text versions. Some late Red Subs feature a partial red/white transition. Dial originality — that the text has not been touched or restored — is paramount to value; any restoration dramatically reduces premiums.
Complete Reference Directory
Every Submariner Reference, Every Year
55+ individual references & variants
The Turn-O-Graph — Ref. 6202 (1953)
6202 — Steel, First Ratchet Bezel
Pre-Submariner · "The Watch That Started It All"
1953 only; first serially produced Rolex with a rotating ratchet bezel; steel version; Cal. 1030; 36mm; black dial with gilt chapter ring; preceded the Submariner by months; directly donated its bezel DNA to the Submariner, GMT-Master, Milgauss, and Sea-Dweller; extraordinarily rare
6202 — Two-Tone Rolesor
First Rolesor Rolex Tool Watch
1953; steel and gold two-tone version; pioneered Rolesor in Rolex tool watches — a concept the market wasn't ready for; only approximately 12 known to exist today; extraordinary rarity; cream-colored dial variants documented
6202 — 18k Yellow Gold
1953; full gold case version; extremely rare; documented in gold case with matching dial; collector price at auction
Proto-Era — Big Crown & Small Crown (1953–1962)
6204 — Steel, Small Crown, Pencil Hands
Possibly The First Submariner
~1953–55; Cal. A260; 37mm; no crown guards; pencil-style hands; no depth rating on early examples; 100m then 200m rated; among the rarest collectible Submariners
6205 — Steel, Small Crown, Mercedes Hands
~1953–55; Cal. A260; slightly thicker case than 6204; first Submariner with Mercedes hour hand; same rarity tier as 6204; gilt dial with radium lume
6200 — Steel, Big Crown 8mm, Explorer Dial
First Big Crown · 3-6-9 Dial
~1955–56; Cal. 1030; 38mm; 8mm oversized crown; Explorer-style 3-6-9 Arabic numeral dial; 200m rated; extremely rare; designed for divers wearing thick gloves; gilt dial, radium lume
6536 — Steel, Small Crown, Cal. 1030
~1955–59; Cal. 1030 (first bi-directional automatic movement); small crown; 2-line and 4-line dial variants; original bezels had red triangle at 12 o'clock (often faded); gilt/silver-gilt dial
6536/1 — Steel, Small Crown, COSC
~1957–60; COSC-certified Cal. 1030; otherwise identical to 6536; the chronometer-rated small crown Submariner
6538 — Steel, Big Crown, 200m — "James Bond"
James Bond Sub · Big Crown
~1956–59; Cal. 1030; 8mm crown; 200m (first Submariner at this rating); 2-line and 4-line dial configurations; worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, Thunderball; auction values exceed $200,000 for fine examples; gilt dial, radium lume
6538A — Military Big Crown, "Coroncione"
~1955–59; military-issued version; "Coroncione" (big crown) nickname in Italian; Cal. 1030; military provenance adds significant collector premium
5510 — Steel, Big Crown, Cal. 1530
Rarest Big Crown · ~400–600 made
~1958; only 1–2 years of production; estimated 400–600 total examples; Cal. 1530 (new for this reference); thicker case than 6538; different lug curve; among the rarest production Rolex watches; values reflect extreme scarcity
5508 — Steel, Small Crown, Tritium Lume
~1958–62; last small-crown, no-crown-guard Submariner; first Sub to use tritium instead of radium; Cal. 1530; transitional reference bridging Big Crown era to the 5512/5513 generation
Ref. 5512 — Chronometer Submariner (1959–1980)
5512 — PCG, Gilt, 2-liner, Chapter Ring
Earliest Crown Guard Sub · "Bart Simpson" coronet
~1959–62; pointed crown guards; glossy gilt dial with chapter ring; 2-liner (no COSC text yet); Cal. 1530; among the most desirable 5512 configurations; radium then tritium lume transition
5512 — PCG, Gilt, Exclamation Dial
Exclamation Point below 6 o'clock
~1960–63; pointed crown guards; gilt dial with elongated "!" lume plot below 6 o'clock; one of the most prized specific dial configurations in vintage Submariner collecting; 2-liner and transitional examples documented
5512 — PCG, Gilt, Underline Dial
Radium-to-Tritium transitional
~1963; pointed crown guards; gilt dial with underline beneath "Swiss" — indicating tritium lume to watchmakers during the transition period; specific collector configuration; highly documented and sought
5512 — PCG, Gilt, 4-liner, Meters First
~1963–66; pointed crown guards; gilt dial with full COSC text; "200m=660ft" depth rating (Meters First); transitioning from PCG to RCG in this period; cal. 1560
5512 — RCG, Matte, 4-liner, Meters First
~1966–69; rounded crown guards; matte black dial with white printing; "200m=660ft"; Cal. 1570; transitional from gilt era
5512 — RCG, Matte, 4-liner, Feet First
~1969–77; rounded crown guards; matte black dial; "660ft=200m" (Feet First, US market); Cal. 1570 with hacking seconds from 1972; the most common 5512 configuration by volume but still fully vintage
5512 — Maxi Dial "Lollipop" (late production)
Lollipop
~1977–80; enlarged Maxi-style dial with oversized lume plots; Cal. 1570; feet-first depth rating; bridging the gap to the 16800 generation; less common than mid-production 5512s
5512 — Explorer Dial (UK market)
Extremely Rare
Made from excess Explorer dial blanks for the UK market; 3-6-9 Arabic numeral hour markers; rare beyond measure; a true museum-level Submariner variant; few documented examples known
Ref. 5513 — The Definitive Vintage Sub (1962–1989)
5513 — PCG, Gilt, 2-liner, Meters First
Earliest 5513 · "Bart Simpson" coronet
~1962–66; pointed crown guards; glossy gilt dial; 2-liner (5513 is always 2-liner — no COSC certification); Cal. 1530; among the most desirable early 5513 configurations; Meters First depth rating
5513 — PCG, Gilt, Exclamation / Underline Variants
Transitional dial markings
~1962–65; PCG gilt examples with exclamation lume plot or underline markings; same transitional significance as on the 5512; specific chapter-ring examples documented; very collectible
5513 — Explorer Dial / 3-6-9 Arabic Numerals
"One of the Rarest Rolex Watches" — produced ~1962–65
PCG gilt dial with Arabic 3, 6, 9 numerals; last of the Explorer-dial Submariners; originally thought to be UK-only but also found on continental European examples; extraordinarily rare; six-figure auction territory
5513 — RCG, Matte, 2-liner, Meters First
~1966–69; rounded crown guards; matte black dial; Cal. 1520; "200m=660ft"; the most collectible matte 5513 configuration behind PCG gilt examples
5513 — RCG, Matte, 2-liner, Feet First
~1969–80; rounded crown guards; matte black dial; "660ft=200m"; Cal. 1520; the highest-volume 5513 configuration; still fully vintage and desirable
5513 — Maxi Dial "Lollipop" (late production)
Lollipop
~1977–89; final 5513 generation; enlarged Maxi dial; glossy black late examples bridge to the five-digit era; white gold surrounds on the latest examples; Cal. 1520 throughout
5513 / 5517 — MilSub (Double-Stamped)
MilSub · British Royal Navy · ~300 known
~1971–75; double-stamped caseback with both 5513 and 5517 references; British Royal Navy issue; sword hands, fixed lug bars, encircled T, fully graduated 60-min bezel; ~1,110 total MilSub examples across all three references, ~300 known today; grail-level collector pieces
5517 — MilSub (Single Reference)
MilSub
~1971–75; same Royal Navy specification as 5513/5517 but single-stamped 5517 reference; sword hands; fixed spring bars; encircled T; 60-minute fully graduated bezel; issued caseback engraving dating issue year
5514 — COMEX (Helium Escape Valve)
COMEX
~1971–84; issued exclusively to COMEX saturation divers; helium escape valve at 10 o'clock; COMEX name on dial; never sold to the public; double-signed dials introduced 1974; exceptionally rare
Ref. 1680 — First Date Submariner (1969–1979)
1680 — Red Sub, Meters First
Red Sub · Rarest 1680 variant
~1969–71; "Submariner" printed in red on dial; "200m=660ft" Meters First depth rating; earliest production; Cal. 1575; most valuable 1680 configuration; dial originality critical — any restoration or reprint dramatically reduces value
1680 — Red Sub, Feet First
Red Sub
~1971–73; "Submariner" in red; "660ft=200m" Feet First; Cal. 1575; slightly more common than Meters First but remains the most collectible date Submariner family
1680 — White Sub, Feet First
~1973–79; "Submariner" in white (same as all text); Feet First depth rating; Cal. 1575; the more common 1680 but still a fully collectible vintage date Sub; COMEX-dial examples exist within this production range
1680 — COMEX Dial
COMEX
~1974–79; COMEX name on dial; no HEV (the 1680 was too thin for the valve); issued to COMEX office staff rather than saturation divers; still rare and desirable
1680/8 — 18k Yellow Gold
First Gold Submariner
~1969–79; first precious metal Submariner; Cal. 1575; gold case and bracelet; black dial; some examples with "nipple dial" (dot at center of hour markers); rare in gold at this era
Transitional Era — Refs. 16800 / 168000 (1979–1989)
16800 — Steel, Black, Sapphire Crystal
1979–88; Cal. 3035 (first high-beat Sub at 28,800vph); sapphire crystal replacing acrylic; 300m WR; maxi dial in later examples; final aluminum bezel; early examples with glossy or matte dial transitions
16808 — 18k Yellow Gold
1979–88; Cal. 3035; yellow gold case and bracelet; black aluminum bezel insert; gold Submariner on sapphire-crystal generation
16803 — Two-Tone Rolesor
First Two-Tone Submariner
1984–88; first-ever two-tone Rolesor Submariner; Cal. 3035; steel and yellow gold; black aluminum bezel; milestone in Submariner history; moderate production makes it collectible
168000 — First 904L Steel Submariner
Only ~9 Months Production · First 904L Sub
~1988–89; Cal. 3035; first Submariner in 904L corrosion-resistant steel — now Rolex's standard across all steel models; less than one year of production before the 16610 replaced it; meaningful rarity for the transitional collector
Five-Digit Era — Refs. 16610 / 14060 (1989–2012)
16610 — Steel, Black Aluminum Bezel
1989–2010; Cal. 3135; 40mm; aluminum bezel insert; sapphire crystal; 300m; the definitive reference for many collectors — pure Submariner formula, Cal. 3135, classic proportions; "last of the best" designation
16610LV — "Kermit" Green Aluminum Bezel
Kermit · 50th Anniversary Edition (2003–2010) · Flat 4 (Y/early F serial) vs. Sharp 4 (later F serial onward)
2003–10; Cal. 3135; first green Submariner; "LV" = Lunette Verte (French: green bezel); black dial with green aluminum insert; Maxi dial; 50th Anniversary of the Submariner collection; our personal favorite modern Sub; two case generations (pre- and post-Rolex rehaut engraving)
16618 — 18k Yellow Gold, Black
1989–2010; Cal. 3135; yellow gold case, bracelet; black aluminum bezel; gold Submariner on the five-digit generation
16613 — Two-Tone Rolesor, Black
1989–2010; Cal. 3135; steel and yellow gold; black aluminum bezel; Oyster bracelet with gold center links
16613 "Serti" — Diamond / Gem-Set Dial
Serti (from French: "to set") · rare collector variant
Two-tone 16613 with a dial set with diamonds or precious stones; "Serti" = gem-set in French; uncommon and sought by collectors; different stone configurations known
14060 — No-Date, Steel, Black
1990–98; Cal. 3000 (early) then 3030; no date window; clean symmetrical dial; the no-date Submariner formula reintroduced as a standalone reference after years as part of the 5513 line
14060M — No-Date, Steel, Black
1998–2012; Cal. 3130; upgraded movement; otherwise identical to 14060; highly regarded by no-date purists; final aluminum-bezel no-date Submariner
Ceramic Super Case — Refs. 116610 / 114060 (2010–2020)
116610LN — Steel, Black Cerachrom
2010–20; Cal. 3135; first ceramic Submariner Date; Maxi Case (thicker lugs and crown guards); 40mm; rehaut engraved "Rolex"; glidelock bracelet; ceramic is scratch-resistant and UV-stable (no fading)
116610LV — "Hulk" Steel, Green Ceramic + Green Dial
Hulk (2010–2020; discontinued)
2010–20; Cal. 3135; green Cerachrom bezel + sunray-brushed green dial; Maxi Case; named for all-green profile and imposing proportions; discontinued 2020 — secondary market values have risen significantly since; considered a must-have modern reference
116618LN — 18k Yellow Gold, Black Cerachrom
2008–20; Cal. 3135; first ceramic Submariner in precious metal; yellow gold case and bracelet; black Cerachrom bezel; introduced two years before the steel ceramic version
116618LB — 18k Yellow Gold, Blue Cerachrom
2008–20; Cal. 3135; yellow gold with blue ceramic bezel; striking combination; introduced alongside 116618LN; blue bezel on gold Sub is a standout modern configuration
116613LN — Two-Tone Rolesor, Black Cerachrom
2009–20; Cal. 3135; steel and yellow gold Rolesor; black ceramic bezel; classic two-tone Sub in the ceramic generation
116613LB — Two-Tone Rolesor, Blue Cerachrom
2009–20; Cal. 3135; steel and yellow gold Rolesor; blue ceramic bezel; blue-bezel variant of the two-tone Sub
116619LB — "Smurf" 18k White Gold, Blue Cerachrom + Blue Dial
Smurf · First White Gold Submariner (2008–2020)
2008–20; Cal. 3135; 18k white gold case and bracelet; blue Cerachrom bezel; vivid lacquered blue dial — the blue-on-blue-on-white-gold combination immediately reminded collectors of The Smurfs; first-ever white gold Submariner and the most expensive standard Sub in the lineup at retail; discontinued 2020 and now highly collectible; not to be confused with the successor 126619LB "Cookie Monster" which has a black dial
114060 — No-Date, Steel, Black Cerachrom
2012–20; Cal. 3130; no date window; Maxi Case; first ceramic no-date Submariner; beloved by purists for its symmetrical dial; considered by many the most elegant modern Sub expression; discontinued 2020
Current Generation — Refs. 126610 / 124060 (2020–present)
126610LN — Steel, Black Cerachrom, 41mm
2020–present; Cal. 3235 (70-hr power reserve; Chronergy escapement); 41mm; slimmer lugs than Maxi Case; redesigned Oyster bracelet with tighter tolerances; current standard black Submariner Date
126610LV — "Starbucks" / "Cermit" Green Ceramic + Black Dial
Starbucks · Cermit (2020–present)
2020–present; Cal. 3235; green Cerachrom bezel + black dial (returning to the Kermit formula); named "Starbucks" for resemblance to the coffee chain logo; also called "Cermit" (Ceramic + Kermit); current most in-demand steel Submariner
126618LN — 18k Yellow Gold, Black Cerachrom
2020–present; Cal. 3235; yellow gold; black ceramic bezel; current generation gold Sub Date
126618LB — 18k Yellow Gold, Blue Cerachrom
2020–present; Cal. 3235; yellow gold; blue ceramic bezel; striking configuration; current generation gold Sub with blue bezel
126613LN — Two-Tone Rolesor, Black Cerachrom
2020–present; Cal. 3235; steel and yellow gold Rolesor; black ceramic bezel; current two-tone date Sub
126613LB — Two-Tone Rolesor, Blue Cerachrom
"Cookie Monster" (informally)
2020–present; Cal. 3235; steel and yellow gold; blue ceramic bezel; the blue and gold combination informally shares the "Cookie Monster" nickname with the white gold 126619LB
126619LB — White Gold, Blue Cerachrom, Black Dial
Cookie Monster
2020–present; Cal. 3235; white gold case and bracelet; blue Cerachrom bezel; black dial; the blue-and-black against white gold reminded collectors of Cookie Monster's wide eyes; one of the most visually striking current Submariners
124060 — No-Date, Steel, Black Cerachrom, 41mm
2020–present; Cal. 3230; 41mm; no date window; current no-date Submariner; considered the purest modern Submariner expression; high demand at authorized dealers; significant secondary market activity
Gem-Set & Special Configuration
Diamond Bezel — Any Reference
Diamond-set bezel on steel, gold, or Rolesor Submariner; varies in carat weight and stone configuration; full and partial diamond bezels both purchased; Rolex factory vs. aftermarket assessed and priced accordingly
Full Pavé — Diamond Case & Bracelet
Full factory diamond-set case and bracelet; among the highest-value Submariner configurations; Rolex-signed factory work vs. third-party setting distinguished and valued accordingly; provenance and authentication documentation welcomed
Serti Dial — Factory Gem-Set Dial
Serti
Factory Rolex gem-set dials replacing standard hour markers with diamonds or colored stones; found primarily on 16613 Rolesor examples but documented across other references; "Serti" = French for "to set (stones)"
Understanding Value
What Drives Submariner Value
The Rolex Submariner is the most produced and most recognized luxury sport watch in history, but within that breadth lies a universe of value differences that require deep collector knowledge to navigate. Dial condition, dial originality, crown guard configuration, bezel authenticity, bracelet matching, and lume integrity are all material to value — and small differences between seemingly similar watches can represent tens of thousands of dollars.
In the vintage tier, the hierarchy runs broadly from the rarest Big Crowns (6200, 5510, 6538) through the gilt-dial PCG 5512 and 5513 variants and into the matte-dial era. Specific configurations command extraordinary premiums: Explorer dial 5513, MilSub, COMEX, Meters First Red Sub, chapter-ring Exclamation dial 5512. Original, unpolished cases with matched bracelets and original bezel inserts (even faded ones) are preferred over polished examples with replacement bezels. On the modern side, the 16610LV Kermit, 116610LV Hulk, 116619LB Smurf, and 126619LB Cookie Monster command the strongest collector premiums in the current-generation market. Ceramic-bezel Submariners hold value excellently, and box-and-papers completeness meaningfully affects realized prices on all references from the 16610 era forward.
The Glenn Bradford Difference
Nearly Four Decades & Passionate Submariner Collectors
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry has been a trusted name in fine jewelry and watches for nearly 40 years, with deep roots in both the Hamptons and New York. Across that time we have built expertise across the full spectrum of fine watchmaking — Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and beyond — bringing the perspective of a serious collector rather than a generalist dealer to every evaluation.
The Submariner is not simply a watch we trade — it is a collection we live in. The Kermit is our personal passion. We understand what separates a PCG gilt Exclamation dial 5512 from a matte-dial RCG example, why the Explorer dial 5513 commands the premium it does, what MilSub authenticity genuinely requires, why a Meters First Red Sub matters, and how to assess an Underline dial without being misled. We know the Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202 not as a footnote to history but as the watch that made all of it possible. Every variant, every marking, every configuration — understood and valued accordingly.
We also know how to read patina on a Submariner — and we value it exactly as a serious collector would. Years of exposure to natural sunlight gradually fades the aluminum bezel insert: what was once a crisp black with sharp white numerals becomes a warm, softened "ghost" — with markings that whisper rather than shout. That is not a flaw. It is an irreproducible record of time, wear, and a life actually lived outdoors. Coastal environments add an entirely different dimension: salt air and ocean exposure from life in the Hamptons and along the Atlantic coast affect the dial, the lume plots, and the metal surfaces in ways that leave each watch genuinely one-of-a-kind. Tritium dials that have aged to cream or warm caramel in our clients' watches represent decades of actual use — and among serious collectors, that aged, original character is precisely what is sought after. We price it that way. A ghost bezel on an original, unpolished 5513 is worth more to us than the same watch with a replaced bezel. An original tropical dial on a 1680 is extraordinary. We never discount patina — we recognize it.
How It Works
A Simple, Discreet Process
01
Submit Your Watch
Use the form above or contact us directly. For vintage references — especially PCG gilt 5512, MilSub, Explorer dial, or Meters First Red Sub — clear photos of the dial, bezel, crown guards, caseback, and movement serial are very helpful.
02
Receive Our Assessment
We respond within 24 hours with a preliminary offer. For significant variants — PCG gilt 5512, MilSub, Explorer dial, or Bakelite-bezel Big Crown — we may request additional photographs before confirming a figure.
03
Agree on Terms
Once we examine the watch in person or receive it via fully insured shipping, we confirm our final offer. No obligation to proceed at any stage.
04
Receive Payment
Payment is made promptly following final agreement and authentication. Wire transfer, check, or other arrangements available to suit your preference.
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes — and sometimes not in the direction sellers expect. We assess vintage Submariner bezels and dials as collectors, not as dealers seeking mint-condition replaceable parts. A ghost bezel — faded and worn from decades of genuine use — on an original, unpolished 5512 or 5513 is preferred over the same watch with a replacement insert. Original tropical dials that have oxidized to brown or caramel carry significant premiums among serious collectors. Original, aged tritium lume plots — even creamy or darkened ones — are valued over replaced lume. What reduces value is non-original, replaced, or restored components. A polished case with a new bezel and redone lume is worth less to us than the same watch in honest, unrestored condition. If your watch has been worn and lived in, please describe it honestly — the patina may be exactly what we are looking for.
Yes. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally. Submit your piece through the form above with clear photographs of the case, dial, caseback, and any paperwork. We will provide a preliminary assessment promptly and can arrange fully insured shipping or a private appointment at our Southampton flagship boutique — whatever is most convenient for you.
Begin the Conversation
Ready to Sell Your
Rolex Submariner?
Reach us by phone, email, or through the form above. Private consultations available in Southampton and New York.