Sell Your Rolex Day-Date Watch | Expert Buyer in the Hamptons, New York | Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry — Southampton & New York
Sell Your Rolex
Day‑Date
The President. Every reference from the first 6510 in 1956 through today's Day‑Date 40 — and every Stella dial, stone dial, burl wood dial, and rare bezel finish in between. We are serious buyers who understand the difference between a pie-pan 1803 and an 18038, why ref. 1810 is something most dealers have never encountered, and what an original Stella dial is actually worth.
Stella Dial Specialists Vintage & Modern Burl Wood & Stone Dials Presidents & Tridor
1956
Year Introduced
Stella
Our Personal Passion
40
Years in Business
1810
Rarest Ref. In Stock
As Seen In
Forbes · The New York Times · Social Life · Hamptons Magazine
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In Our Possession — The Rarest of All
Ref. 1810 — The Wavy Bark
Rolex Day‑Date Ref. 1810 — Wavy Bark Finish
YELLOW GOLD · CAL. 1555 · CIRCA 1963–64 · EXTREMELY FEW EXAMPLES KNOWN
The reference 1810 occupies a singular position among Day‑Date rarities. While collectors know the Florentine-finish 1806, the Bark 1807, and the Morellis/Moiré 1811, the 1810 is the one most dealers have simply never encountered. Its production period was extraordinarily limited — confirmed only in 1963 and 1964 — and very few examples are known to exist. The finish is best described as a hand-engraved wavy bark: a rippling, undulating texture unlike any other Rolex case treatment, applied by hand and therefore unique on every example.
We have personally held this reference. We currently have one in stock — it is the only ref. 1810 we have ever seen in nearly 40 years in this business. When a collector presents us with a reference 1810, we know exactly what it is, we know its rarity, and we will pay accordingly. We are not in a position to undervalue something this rare.
If you own a ref. 1810, please contact us directly. This may be the most important call you make about your watch collection.
Every Generation Purchased
From First President
to Current Production
Proto-Era — Refs. 6510, 6511, 6611–6613
1956–1959 · CAL. 1055 · YELLOW GOLD
The first Day‑Dates. The 6510 (smooth bezel) and 6511 (fluted bezel) debuted in 1956 as the world's first watch to display both day and date spelled in full. The original Cal. 1055 proved temperamental; the 6611/6612/6613 corrected it with a Micro-Stella balance. It was the ref. 6611 that first introduced the President bracelet — the dedicated precious-metal three-link bracelet that defines the model to this day. These earliest references are extremely rare on any market and represent genuine horological firsts. The ref. 1831 — a platinum Day‑Date made to special order with approximately 8 examples known — sits in a category of its own. All purchased at full provenance premiums.
4-Digit Series — Refs. 1802–1811
1959–1977 · CAL. 1555 / 1556 · PIE-PAN DIAL · PLEXIGLASS CRYSTAL
When collectors say "vintage Day‑Date," they mean this generation — particularly the ref. 1803. The pie-pan dial (sloped outer edge), acrylic crystal, and absence of quickset functions are the hallmarks. The 1803 (fluted bezel) is the most common; the 1802 (smooth), 1804 (diamond), 1806 (Florentine), 1807 (bark), and 1811 (Morellis/Moiré) all have devoted followings. The ref. 1810 — the wavy bark — is the rarest of all; production was 1963–64 only, and very few examples have surfaced in the entire history of the collector market. Stella dials on 1803 examples can reach $150,000+. Stone dials — lapis lazuli, onyx, malachite — are highly collectible. Early straight-grain wood dials (pre-burlwood, c. early 1970s) are particularly fragile and prized. All purchased.
5-Digit Series — Refs. 18028, 18038, 180XX
1977–1988 · CAL. 3055 · SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL · FLAT DIAL
The transition to five-digit references in 1977 brought the sapphire crystal, Cal. 3055 at 28,800vph, and single quickset for the date — the end of the pure pie-pan era and the start of modern functionality. The 18038 (yellow gold fluted) is the benchmark; the 18039 (white gold), 18026 (platinum), and various bezel-finish variants complete the generation. The Tridor ref. 18039 — three-color gold President bracelet combining white, yellow, and rose gold links — was Rolex's showcase of molecular gold bonding technology and remains among the most visually distinctive Day‑Date configurations ever made. Stella dials continue in this generation; burlwood dials (birch, walnut, African mahogany, madrone) were introduced here. All variants, bezels, and dial types purchased.
Oysterquartz Day‑Date — Refs. 19018, 19028
1977–2001 · CAL. 5055 QUARTZ · INTEGRATED BRACELET · ANGULAR CASE
Rolex's quartz era produced one of the most architecturally distinctive Day‑Dates ever made. The Oysterquartz features a sharply angular integrated bracelet — polished center links fused to the case — that bears no resemblance to the President bracelet and evokes the design language of the 1970s entirely. The Cal. 5055 thermo-compensated quartz movement was extraordinarily accurate. Available in yellow gold (19018) and white gold (19028); special burlwood-dialed versions were produced in limited quantities. The Oysterquartz Day‑Date was in production until 2001 and has gained renewed collector attention with the 2025 release of the Rolex Land‑Dweller, which openly references its design language. All variants purchased.
Refs. 18238, 18239 — Cal. 3155 Generation
1988–2000 · CAL. 3155 · DOUBLE QUICKSET · YELLOW GOLD, WHITE GOLD, PLATINUM
The introduction of Cal. 3155 in 1988 brought the first-ever double quickset — independent adjustment of both day and date without advancing the hands — a significant convenience upgrade. The 18238 (yellow gold) is the last Day‑Date generation with brushed lug tops. The Tridor 18239 in three-color gold continues from this era. Burlwood dials (walnut remained in the catalog into the early 2000s) and Stella dials continue here. The white gold 18239 with birch burlwood dial is considered among the most elegant quiet-luxury configurations in the entire Day‑Date lineage. All metals, bezels, and exotic dial types purchased.
Refs. 118238–118XXX — Modern Six-Digit
2000–2008 · CAL. 3155 · CROWNCLASP BRACELET · REHAUT ENGRAVING
Introduced at Baselworld 2000, the 118xxx series brought the Crownclasp (hidden clasp mechanism) and the repeating Rolex rehaut engraving as anti-counterfeiting measures. The President bracelet received full solid links for the first time. Everose gold — Rolex's proprietary rose-gold alloy (18k, with platinum for fade resistance) — appears in this generation for the first time on the Day‑Date with ref. 118235. The 118348 with enamel Carousel dial (green enamel with painted figures) is among the most unusual modern Day‑Date configurations. Platinum ref. 118346 with diamond baguette bezel. Stone dials, gem-set cases, and walnut burlwood dials continue. All variants purchased at market rates.
Day‑Date II — Refs. 218238–218XXX, 41mm
2008–2015 · CAL. 3156 · 41MM · YELLOW GOLD / WHITE GOLD / EVEROSE / PLATINUM
Introduced to mark Rolex's 100th anniversary, the Day‑Date II pushed the case diameter to 41mm with a bolder, thicker bezel and more pronounced proportions. The 218238 (yellow gold) and siblings in white gold (218239), Everose (218235), and platinum (218206) were produced for just seven years before being replaced by the better-proportioned Day‑Date 40. The Day‑Date II is powered by Cal. 3156. Its short production run and distinct character have earned it a growing collector following, particularly with buyers who want the largest Day‑Date configuration. All variants and dial configurations purchased.
Day‑Date 40 — Refs. 228238–228XXX
2015–PRESENT · CAL. 3255 · 40MM · 70HR POWER RESERVE
The Day‑Date 40 corrected the proportional misstep of its predecessor — retaining the larger 40mm diameter but slimming the bezel and lugs to recover the elegance of the 36mm. Cal. 3255, Rolex's current flagship movement, brings the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock protection, Parachrom hairspring, 70-hour power reserve, and +2/-2 second daily accuracy. Available in yellow gold (228238), white gold (228239), Everose (228235), and platinum (228206). The platinum 228396TBR with baguette diamond bezel and rainbow gems is among the most expensive production Rolexes ever made. Green dial 228238 in Roman numerals commanded secondary market prices above $100,000 at peak 2022 demand. All references, metals, and dial configurations purchased.
Day‑Date 36 Current — Refs. 128238–128XXX
2019–PRESENT · CAL. 3255 · 36MM · YELLOW GOLD / WHITE GOLD / EVEROSE / PLATINUM
The 36mm Day‑Date was updated to Cal. 3255 in 2019 with refs. 128238 (yellow gold), 128239 (white gold), 128235 (Everose), and 128206 (platinum). The 36mm remains the definitive Day‑Date size — the one collectors picture when they think President — and the new movement is a substantial upgrade over Cal. 3155. Full diamond cases (128349 white gold, 128345 Everose) and diamond baguette bezels continue. Current production, full secondary market premiums paid.
Know What You Have
Exotic Dials & Rare Configurations
The Day‑Date is Rolex's canvas for its most extraordinary dial materials. Understanding which configuration you own determines the offer — the difference between a standard champagne dial and a genuine Stella or a stone dial can be tens of thousands of dollars.
Stella Dial — Lacquered Enamel
Official Rolex catalog name "Lacquered Stella." Hard-fired enamel lacquer in saturated colors — red, orange, oxblood, blue, green, turquoise, yellow, pink, purple, peach, coral. Produced primarily for Middle Eastern and Asian markets from early 1970s through late 1980s, with rare later examples. Glossy, deep, almost dimensional color impossible to replicate. Counterfeits are common; authentication essential. White and pink gold examples command the highest premiums. Original lacquer without cracks is critical to value.
Vignette / Dégradé Dial
Close cousin of the Stella. Applied with the same lacquer technique, but the dial rotates during application, creating a darker outer ring that fades to lighter color toward center. Rarer than standard Stellas. Also known as "dégradé." Equally sought by serious Stella collectors.
Burlwood Dial
Four varieties: birch (lightest), African mahogany, walnut, and madrone. Each burl is unique — formed at tree stress points, producing swirling, flame-like grain patterns impossible to replicate. Introduced on 5-digit references c. early 1980s; walnut remained in the Rolex catalog into the early 2000s and was available as a service dial replacement until recently. White gold + burlwood (especially 18239) is the premier quiet-luxury Day‑Date configuration. Prone to delamination; original intact examples command significant premiums.
Stone Dial
Hard stone dials cut and polished from semi-precious minerals. Known types: lapis lazuli (deep blue with gold pyrite inclusions), malachite (swirling greens), onyx (deep black, often no hour markers), bloodstone (dark green with red iron oxide spots), sodalite, tiger's eye, meteorite, coral, turquoise, and jade. Each dial is unique due to natural variation. Stone dials on vintage references often omit hour markers entirely (applying them risks cracking the stone), giving them a striking minimalist appearance. Values vary widely by stone type, reference, and condition.
Meteorite Dial
Authentic Gibeon meteorite from Namibia — formed 4 billion years ago, composed of iron-nickel alloy. The Widmanstätten crystalline patterns (visible geometric structures formed in the vacuum of space) cannot be replicated or forged. Every dial is entirely unique. Available on modern Day‑Date references and Daytona. Among the most distinctive materials Rolex has ever used.
Pie-Pan Dial
Sloped outer edge on 4-digit references (pre-1977). The defining visual characteristic of vintage Day‑Date collecting. The slope is visible at the outer circumference of the dial and creates a distinctive dimensional appearance under acrylic crystal. All 1800-series references carry the pie-pan; the flat dial arrived with the 18038 in 1977.
Khanjar Dial
Special-order dials featuring the Khanjar (curved ceremonial dagger) — the national symbol of Oman — applied to the dial, replacing the typical hour marker at 12 o'clock. Made for the Omani royal court and presented as gifts. Among the most culturally significant and regionally specific Day‑Date configurations; highly sought and rarely offered publicly.
Gem-Set & Full Diamond Case
Varying levels of gem coverage from diamond-set bezel only through full pavé dial and case. Modern platinum Day‑Date 40 ref. 228206 features trapezoidal diamonds on the bezel — each individually angled to form a gapless circle, far more labor-intensive than round brilliant settings. Full diamond "Ice" configurations with pavé dials and cases represent Rolex's most labor-intensive, highest-cost production pieces.
Florentine / Bark / Morellis Bezels
The 4-digit bezel finish variants: ref. 1806 (Florentine — crosshatched engraving giving a brushed textile appearance), ref. 1807 (Bark — rough organic tree-bark texture), ref. 1811 (Morellis/Moiré — rippled, wave-like finish), ref. 1810 (Wavy Bark — the rarest; hand-applied undulating finish, 1963–64 only). All continue in the 5-digit series (18028, 18078, etc.) with the added precision of the sapphire crystal era.
Tridor Three-Color Gold
The Tridor Day‑Date (ref. 18039, later 18239) features a President bracelet with alternating links in white, yellow, and rose gold — three metals joined using Rolex's proprietary molecular bonding technique. Made to demonstrate mastery of gold metallurgy. Visually distinctive without being ostentatious, and far rarer than yellow or white gold configurations. High demand among collectors who value technical craftsmanship over diamonds.
Enamel Carousel Dial
Rare modern Day‑Date configuration (ref. 118348 et al.) featuring a painted enamel dial with figurative carousel or scene motifs. Full hand-painted enamel — the most labor-intensive Rolex dial process. Among the most unusual and collectible modern Day‑Date variations. Very few examples produced and rarely surface.
Straight-Grain Wood Dial
The original wood dials — applied to 4-digit references in the early 1970s before burlwood — featured straight-grain wood. Extremely rare and prone to cracking due to early stabilization methods. Distinguished from the later burlwood dials by the regular, non-swirling grain pattern. These early wood dials are among the most fragile and desirable Day‑Date configurations in existence.
Known By Many Names
Day‑Date Nicknames
P
The President
All Day‑Date references on President bracelet
The Day‑Date's most enduring nickname, earned through decades of association with US and world heads of state. Dwight Eisenhower wore one; Lyndon B. Johnson, Richard Nixon, and John F. Kennedy (gifted his by Marilyn Monroe in 1962, engraved "JACK / With love as always / from / MARILYN") all wore Day‑Dates. The President bracelet — three-piece semi-circular links in solid precious metal with a hidden Crownclasp — was created specifically for this watch in 1956 and is available on no other Rolex model.
S
Stella
Any Day‑Date with original lacquered enamel dial (early 1970s–late 1980s)
Unlike most Rolex nicknames coined by collectors, "Stella" was the actual name Rolex used in its catalogs: "Lacquered Stella." Named for Stella S.A. of Geneva, the supplier of the proprietary lacquer. Produced in colors including red, orange, oxblood, blue, green, turquoise, yellow, pink, purple, peach, coral, and the rarer vignette/dégradé fade variants. Originally considered too bold and commercially unsuccessful; many examples reportedly destroyed. Now among the most prized vintage Rolex configurations in existence, with serious examples trading from $60,000 to well over $300,000.
T
Tridor
Refs. 18039, 18239 (and variants)
Three-color gold — white, yellow, and rose — alternating across the President bracelet center links. Made to showcase Rolex's proprietary molecular gold bonding technology, the Tridor is the Day‑Date for collectors who prioritize technical artistry and restraint over diamonds and gem-setting. Among the most technically distinctive configurations in the entire Day‑Date lineage. Rarer than standard gold or white gold references on the market today.
PL
Ice Blue
Platinum Day‑Date with ice blue dial (all eras)
The signature platinum color — a pale, ethereal blue reserved exclusively for platinum-cased Rolex models. The ice blue dial is Rolex's subtle code for platinum: it appears on no other metal. On modern Day‑Date 40 ref. 228206 and 36 ref. 128206, the ice blue is paired with the most labor-intensive bezel setting Rolex makes: trapezoidal diamonds individually angled to form a seamless circle. A platinum Day‑Date with ice blue is the pinnacle of the President's watch hierarchy.
PP
Pie Pan
All 4-digit references (6510 through 1811)
The sloped outer edge of the vintage Day‑Date dial — the defining visual characteristic of the 1800-series generation. Under acrylic crystal, the pie-pan creates a dimensional, almost convex appearance impossible to replicate with the flat dials that arrived with the 18038 in 1977. All 4-digit Day‑Dates have the pie-pan; collectors who prize the vintage aesthetic specifically seek it. The transition to flat dials with sapphire crystals in 1977 marks a clear generational divide in the collector market.
OQ
Oysterquartz
Refs. 19018, 19028 (1977–2001)
Rolex's angular departure — integrated bracelet, faceted case, polished center links, quartz movement. The Oysterquartz Day‑Date has no visual relationship to the President; it is a distinct object entirely. Powered by the thermo-compensated Cal. 5055 (yellow gold 19018) or its siblings, these watches were among the most accurate Rolexes ever made and remained in production until 2001. Renewed collector interest followed the 2025 Rolex Land‑Dweller, which openly borrows the Oysterquartz's integrated bracelet aesthetic.
K
Khanjar
Special-order Day‑Dates with Omani dagger motif
The Khanjar — the curved ceremonial dagger that forms the national symbol of Oman — was applied to special-order Day‑Date dials for the Omani royal court, typically replacing the 12 o'clock hour marker. Among the most culturally significant Rolex special orders ever produced. These watches were gifts and instruments of diplomacy; they rarely come to market and command significant premiums when they do.
BW
Burl Wood
5-digit and 6-digit Day‑Dates with burlwood dials (1980s–early 2000s)
Four varieties — birch (lightest, most distinctive), walnut (rich brown), African mahogany, and madrone. Each burl is unique, shaped by stress in the growing tree, making every burl wood dial a one-of-a-kind object. The white gold 18239 with birch dial is considered the definitive post-opulent Day‑Date: wood, not diamonds; restraint, not spectacle. The indices on burlwood examples are polished half-cylinder shaped — distinct from the square applied baton indices on metal-dial versions.
Complete Reference Directory
Every President, Every Reference
Search by reference number, bezel type, metal, dial material, nickname, or era.
Proto-Era — First Day‑Dates (1956–1959)
6510 — Smooth Bezel
World's First Day-Date
1956–57; Cal. 1055; yellow gold; smooth bezel; Jubilee bracelet at launch; movement proved unreliable and was quickly corrected; extreme rarity
6511 — Fluted Bezel
World's First Day-Date
1956–57; Cal. 1055; yellow gold; fluted bezel; pie-pan dial; dauphine hands; contemporaneous with 6510; equally rare
6611 — Smooth Bezel
First President Bracelet
1957–59; Cal. 1055 with Micro-Stella balance; corrected date mechanism of 6510/6511; introduced the President bracelet; ~6 prototype steel examples known
6612 — Fluted Bezel
1957–59; Cal. 1055 revised; yellow gold; President bracelet; fluted bezel variant of 6611
6613 — Gem-Set Bezel
1957–59; Cal. 1055 revised; yellow gold; diamond-set bezel; first gem-set Day‑Date; extremely rare
4-Digit Series — Refs. 180x (1959–1977)
1802 — Yellow Gold, Smooth Bezel
1963–77; Cal. 1555/1556; pie-pan dial; smooth unadorned bezel; more restrained aesthetic than fluted 1803; Stella and stone dial variants exist
1803 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel
Definitive Vintage Day-Date
1961–77; Cal. 1555 → 1556 (hacking seconds added 1972); 36mm; pie-pan dial; acrylic crystal; President bracelet; most celebrated vintage Day‑Date reference; Stella dials from ~1,200 known examples; stone dials; early straight-grain wood dials (early 1970s, ultra-rare); all configurations purchased
1803 — Stella Dial Variants
Stella — Lacquered Enamel
Colors: red, orange, oxblood, blue, green, turquoise, yellow, pink, purple, peach, coral, vignette/dégradé; ~1,200 total Stella 1803s estimated; coral and turquoise among rarest colors; original lacquer without cracking essential; $60,000–$150,000+ depending on color and condition
1803 — Stone & Wood Dial Variants
Stone / Wood Dial
Stone types: lapis lazuli, onyx, malachite, coral, bloodstone, tiger's eye; often no hour markers (applying them risks cracking stone); straight-grain wood dials (early 1970s only) extremely rare and prone to cracking; all purchased at full collector premiums
1804 — Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel
1961–77; Cal. 1555/1556; diamond-set bezel; pie-pan dial; acrylic crystal; Stella and stone dial variants exist
1806 — Florentine Bezel Finish
1961–77; Cal. 1555/1556; crosshatched Florentine engraving on bezel giving textile-like appearance; yellow gold; pie-pan dial; distinctive and sought by collectors
1807 — Bark-Finish Bezel
1963–77; Cal. 1555/1556; organic bark-texture engraving on bezel and lugs; yellow gold; pie-pan dial; strong collector following; continued in 5-digit as 18078
1810 — Wavy Bark Finish
Rarest 4-Digit Reference — 1963–64 Only
1963–64; Cal. 1555; yellow gold; hand-applied undulating wavy bark case finish unlike any other Rolex treatment; extraordinarily few examples known; production period confirmed only 1963–64; listed in 1973 Rolex spare parts catalog but rarely seen in any decade of the collector market; we currently hold one example — the only ref. 1810 we have ever encountered in nearly 40 years
1811 — Morellis / Moiré Bezel
1966–77; Cal. 1555/1556; rippled moiré-pattern surface treatment on bezel; yellow gold; pie-pan dial; final and rarest of the standard 4-digit bezel-finish variants; ~10 known examples estimated; near-mythic scarcity
1831 — Platinum, Special Order
~8 Examples Known
Never appeared in any Rolex catalog; made to special order; platinum case; approximately 8 examples known to exist; the rarest Day‑Date reference in existence; extraordinary provenance value
5-Digit Series — Refs. 180XX (1977–1988)
18028 — Yellow Gold, Smooth Bezel
1977–88; Cal. 3055; sapphire crystal; flat dial (no pie-pan); single quickset date; ~30–80 Stella examples estimated; Stella 18028s command $100,000+
18038 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel
Benchmark 5-Digit Reference
1977–88; Cal. 3055; sapphire crystal; flat dial; single quickset date; ~1,000 Stella examples estimated (most numerous Stella reference); burlwood dials (birch, walnut, mahogany, madrone); stone dials; standard and exotic configurations purchased; $90,000–$300,000+ for Stella depending on color
18038 — Burlwood Dial Variants
Burl Wood — Birch / Walnut / Mahogany / Madrone
Four wood types; polished half-cylinder indices (not square baton); birch is lightest; walnut and mahogany are often mislabeled; intact original wood with no delamination or cracking essential; each dial unique
18038 — Stone Dial Variants
Stone — Lapis / Malachite / Onyx / Bloodstone
Hard stone dials; often no hour markers; each dial unique; bloodstone examples command $300,000+ at auction; lapis and malachite also highly valued
18048 — Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel
1977–88; Cal. 3055; diamond-set bezel; sapphire crystal; Stella and stone dial variants exist
18078 — Yellow Gold, Bark Bezel
1977–88; Cal. 3055; bark-finish bezel in 5-digit era; burlwood dial variants known; continued collector following
18039 — White Gold, Fluted Bezel
1977–88; Cal. 3055; white gold case and President bracelet; Stella dials on white gold are particularly rare and command highest premiums (white gold + Stella = trophy configuration)
18039 "Tridor" — Three-Color Gold
Tridor — White + Yellow + Rose Gold Bracelet
White gold case; President bracelet with alternating white, yellow, and rose gold links via molecular bonding; made to showcase Rolex gold metallurgy; far rarer than standard gold or white gold references
18049 — White Gold, Diamond Bezel
1977–88; Cal. 3055; white gold; diamond-set bezel; Stella variants on white gold are extremely rare
18079 — White Gold, Bark Bezel
1977–88; Cal. 3055; white gold; bark-finish bezel; unusual and rarely seen
18026 — Platinum, Smooth Bezel
Platinum
1977–88; Cal. 3055; platinum case and bracelet; smooth bezel; rare and highly collectible; ice-toned dial
18046 — Platinum, Diamond Bezel
Platinum
1977–88; Cal. 3055; platinum; diamond-set bezel; among the most prestigious 5-digit configurations
19018 — Oysterquartz, Yellow Gold
Oysterquartz — Cal. 5055 Quartz
1977–2001; Cal. 5055 thermo-compensated quartz; angular integrated bracelet; polished center links; 36mm; yellow gold; burlwood-dialed versions produced; extraordinary accuracy; renewed collector interest 2025
19028 — Oysterquartz, White Gold
Oysterquartz — Cal. 5055 Quartz
1977–2001; Cal. 5055 quartz; white gold; same integrated angular case as 19018; rare white gold Oysterquartz configuration
5-Digit Updated — Refs. 182XX / 183XX (1988–2000)
18238 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel
First Double Quickset — Last Brushed Lug Tops
1988–2000; Cal. 3155; first Day‑Date with double quickset (day and date independently); last reference with brushed lug top finishing; burlwood and Stella dial variants; most sought-after 5-digit generation reference
18238 — Burlwood & Stella Variants
Burl Wood
Burlwood dial variants (birch, walnut, mahogany, madrone) continue in this generation; walnut remained in catalog and as service dial into early 2000s; Stella lacquered variants also known
18248 — Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel
1988–2000; Cal. 3155; diamond-set bezel; double quickset; all exotic dial configurations possible
18239 — White Gold, Fluted Bezel
1988–2000; Cal. 3155; white gold case and bracelet; double quickset; considered by many collectors the definitive elegant Day‑Date configuration in this era
18239 — Burlwood Dial
White Gold + Burl Wood — Exceptional
White gold 18239 with birch burlwood dial is considered by collectors the peak quiet-luxury Day‑Date: organic material, precious metal, zero ostentation; the indices are white gold polished half-cylinders; a singular configuration
18239 "Tridor" — Three-Color Gold
Tridor — Three-Color Gold Bracelet
Three-color gold President bracelet continues into Cal. 3155 generation; molecular bonding of white, yellow, and rose gold
18249 — White Gold, Diamond Bezel
1988–2000; Cal. 3155; white gold; diamond-set bezel; double quickset
18206 — Platinum, Smooth Bezel
Platinum
1988–2000; Cal. 3155; platinum; smooth bezel; double quickset; highly collectible platinum configuration
18236 — Platinum, Diamond Baguette Bezel
Platinum — Baguette Diamonds
1988–2000; Cal. 3155; platinum; baguette diamond bezel; among the most formal and prestigious 5-digit Day‑Date configurations
6-Digit Series — Refs. 118XXX (2000–2008)
118238 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel
Crownclasp Debut — Solid President Bracelet
2000–08; Cal. 3155 → updated; Crownclasp; solid President bracelet links; rehaut engraving; widened lugs; stone, burlwood, and Stella dial variants known; standard reference for this generation
118248 — Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel
2000–08; Cal. 3155; diamond-set bezel; all dial configurations available
118348 — Yellow Gold, Full Diamond Case
Includes Enamel Carousel Dial Variant
2000–08; Cal. 3155; full diamond-set case; rare Enamel Carousel dial variant with hand-painted figurative enamel known (ref. 118348); extraordinary collector piece
118239 — White Gold, Fluted Bezel
2000–08; Cal. 3155; white gold case and President bracelet; Crownclasp; stone and burlwood variants continue
118249 — White Gold, Diamond Bezel
2000–08; Cal. 3155; white gold; diamond-set bezel
118389 — White Gold, Full Diamond Case
2000–08; Cal. 3155; full diamond case in white gold; high-jewelry tier
118235 — Everose Gold, Fluted Bezel
First Everose Day‑Date
Everose gold debut generation for Day‑Date; Rolex proprietary 18k rose gold with platinum for fade resistance; modern rose gold alternative to yellow or white
118135 — Everose Gold, Diamond Bezel
Everose gold; diamond-set bezel; gem-set configurations continue in rose gold
118205 — Platinum, Smooth Bezel
Platinum — Ice Blue Dial
Platinum; smooth bezel; ice blue dial (exclusive to platinum); Crownclasp; highly collectible modern platinum President
118206 — Platinum, Diamond Bezel
Platinum — Ice Blue Dial
Platinum; diamond-set bezel; ice blue dial; among the most prestigious 6-digit Day‑Date configurations
118346 — Platinum, Diamond Baguette Bezel
Platinum — Baguette Bezel
Platinum; baguette diamond bezel; ice blue dial; formal dress watch pinnacle of this generation
118138 / 118139 — Colored Leather Strap Editions
2013 Stella-Adjacent
2013; colored lacquered dials with matching colored crocodile straps — green/cognac (yellow gold), blue/cherry (white gold), chocolate/rhodium (Everose); not original lacquered Stella but inspired by Stella collector trend of matching dials to straps; the ultra-rare 118139 with yellow Stella diamond dial from 2013 is one of the most extraordinary modern Day‑Date pieces known
Day‑Date II — Refs. 218XXX, 41mm (2008–2015)
218238 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel, 41mm
Rolex Centennial Edition — 100th Anniversary
2008–15; Cal. 3156; 41mm; bolder bezel; heavier case; marks Rolex's 100th anniversary; yellow gold; 7-year production run; growing collector following
218248 — Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel, 41mm
2008–15; Cal. 3156; 41mm; diamond-set bezel; yellow gold
218239 — White Gold, Fluted Bezel, 41mm
2008–15; Cal. 3156; 41mm; white gold; fluted bezel
218249 — White Gold, Diamond Bezel, 41mm
2008–15; Cal. 3156; 41mm; white gold; diamond bezel
218235 — Everose Gold, Fluted Bezel, 41mm
2008–15; Cal. 3156; 41mm; Everose gold; fluted bezel
218206 — Platinum, Diamond Baguette Bezel, 41mm
Platinum — Ice Blue Dial
2008–15; Cal. 3156; 41mm; platinum; baguette diamond bezel; ice blue dial; most prestigious Day‑Date II configuration
Day‑Date 40 — Refs. 228XXX, 40mm (2015–present)
228238 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel, 40mm
Current Production — Cal. 3255
2015–present; Cal. 3255; 40mm; Chronergy escapement; Parachrom hairspring; Paraflex shock protection; 70hr power reserve; +2/−2 sec/day; standard yellow gold President; green dial Roman numeral variant commanded $100,000+ at 2022 peak
228238 — Diamond Bezel & Dial Variants, 40mm
Diamond-set bezel; various dial configurations including gem-set, meteorite, and lacquered color dials; full secondary market premiums paid
228239 — White Gold, Fluted Bezel, 40mm
2015–present; Cal. 3255; 40mm; white gold case and President bracelet
228349 — White Gold, Full Diamond Case, 40mm
White gold; diamond-pavé case; highest gem-set tier in current Day‑Date 40 collection
228235 — Everose Gold, Fluted Bezel, 40mm
2015–present; Cal. 3255; 40mm; Everose gold case and President bracelet; fluted bezel
228345 — Everose Gold, Full Diamond Case, 40mm
Everose gold; full diamond-set case; high-jewelry tier
228206 — Platinum, Trapezoidal Diamond Bezel, 40mm
Platinum — Ice Blue Dial — Trapezoidal Diamonds
Platinum; ice blue dial; trapezoidal diamonds (angled individually to form a gapless circle — far more labor-intensive than round brilliant); 70hr power reserve; current pinnacle of the Day‑Date 40 lineup
228396TBR — Platinum, Rainbow Baguette Bezel, 40mm
Rainbow — Among Most Expensive Production Rolexes
Platinum; graduated rainbow baguette sapphire bezel; among the most expensive production Rolexes ever retailed; extraordinary secondary market premiums; all colors and condition purchased
Day‑Date 36 Current — Refs. 128XXX (2019–present)
128238 — Yellow Gold, Fluted Bezel, 36mm
Cal. 3255 — Current Production
2019–present; Cal. 3255; 36mm; the definitive Day‑Date size; new movement brought 70hr power reserve and Chronergy escapement to 36mm; President bracelet; full dial variety
128248 — Yellow Gold, Diamond Bezel, 36mm
2019–present; Cal. 3255; yellow gold; diamond-set bezel
128239 — White Gold, Fluted Bezel, 36mm
2019–present; Cal. 3255; white gold case and bracelet; current production
128249 — White Gold, Diamond Bezel, 36mm
2019–present; Cal. 3255; white gold; diamond bezel
128349 — White Gold, Full Diamond Case, 36mm
White gold; pavé diamond case; highest gem-set tier in current 36mm lineup
128235 — Everose Gold, Fluted Bezel, 36mm
2019–present; Cal. 3255; Everose gold; fluted bezel; current production
128345 — Everose Gold, Full Diamond Case, 36mm
Everose gold; full diamond case; high-jewelry tier
128206 — Platinum, Diamond Baguette Bezel, 36mm
Platinum — Ice Blue Dial
Platinum; baguette diamond bezel; ice blue dial; pinnacle of current 36mm Day‑Date configuration; full secondary market premiums paid
The Glenn Bradford Difference
Nearly Four Decades & Passionate Day‑Date Collectors
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry has been a trusted name in fine jewelry and watches for nearly 40 years, with deep roots in both the Hamptons and New York. Across that time we have built expertise across the full spectrum of fine watchmaking — Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and beyond — bringing the perspective of a serious collector rather than a generalist dealer to every evaluation.
The Day‑Date is not simply a watch we trade — it is a collection we live in. We understand what separates an original Stella-dialed 1803 from a replacement, why an unpolished pie-pan dial 1803 on a full matching President bracelet is a different object entirely from a polished, serviced example, what the 1810 Wavy Bark represents in the hierarchy of vintage Rolex rarity, and how to assess stone and wood dials without being misled. Every variant, every bezel finish, every dial configuration — understood and valued accordingly.
Sylvester Stallone is perhaps the most celebrated Day‑Date collector in the world — and his taste ran directly to the exotic. Stallone built an extraordinary collection centered on Stella-dialed Day‑Dates, commissioning and acquiring rare examples across multiple colors and configurations during the 1970s and 1980s. His collecting helped define the modern connoisseur's understanding of what a Stella dial represents: not simply a colorful variant, but a statement of extreme rarity, personal expression, and extraordinary craftsmanship. Stallone's collection includes red, orange, and other vivid lacquered Stella examples — many of which have become reference points for authentication and valuation. The celebrity provenance dimension of the Day‑Date begins with Eisenhower and runs through every head of state, diplomat, and cultural figure who understood what wearing a President meant. Stallone understood it as only a true collector could.
We also know how to authenticate Stella dials — and we value them exactly as a serious collector would. The counterfeit Stella market is active and well-developed; original Stella S.A. lacquer from the 1970s has a dimensional depth and color saturation impossible to replicate, and older examples may show fine spidering in the lacquer that collectors celebrate as proof of age and originality. We have evaluated hundreds of Stella dials over nearly four decades and will not misattribute a vignette, mistake a replacement for an original, or fail to recognize the difference between a standard champagne dial and an intact, vivid early Stella. Authentication here is not a formality — it is the transaction.
How It Works
A Simple, Discreet Process
01
Submit Your Watch
Use the form above or contact us directly. For rare or valuable configurations — Stella dials, stone dials, wood dials, ref. 1810, Tridor, early pie-pan 1803 — clear photographs of the dial, bezel, case, caseback, and any paperwork are very helpful. For Stella dials, include a photo in natural light showing the lacquer surface.
02
Receive Our Assessment
We respond within 24 hours with a preliminary offer. For significant configurations — original Stella, rare bezel-finish variants, stone or wood dials, or early proto-era references — we may request additional photographs before confirming a figure.
03
Agree on Terms
Once we examine the watch in person or receive it via fully insured shipping, we confirm our final offer. No obligation to proceed at any stage.
04
Receive Payment
Payment is made promptly following final agreement and authentication. Wire transfer, check, or other arrangements available to suit your preference.
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Original Stella dials have specific characteristics: the lacquer has a depth and dimensional brilliance impossible to replicate, the color saturation is distinctly intense, and older examples may show fine spidering cracks in the lacquer that collectors celebrate as proof of authenticity and age. The text printing, coronet, and indices should be consistent with the production period. Stallone-era examples from the 1970s and early 1980s are among the most studied and imitated — authentication experience matters. We have evaluated hundreds of Stella dials and can assess yours from clear photographs. Always sell to a dealer with documented authentication experience; the counterfeit Stella market is active and sophisticated.
Yes. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally. Submit your piece through the form above with clear photographs of the case, dial, caseback, and any paperwork. We will provide a preliminary assessment promptly and can arrange fully insured shipping or a private appointment at our Southampton flagship boutique — whatever is most convenient for you.
Begin the Conversation
Ready to Sell Your
Rolex Day‑Date?
Reach us by phone, email, or through the form above. Private consultations available in Southampton and New York.