Sell Your Patek Philippe Calatrava Watch | Expert Buyer in the Hamptons, New York | Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry · Southampton & New York
Sell Your
Patek Philippe Calatrava.
The original dress watch — introduced in 1932 and still in continuous production. From the legendary ref. 96 to the modern 6119. Four decades of buying and selling the watch that defined elegant timekeeping.
1932
First Calatrava
Ref. 96
The Original
40 Yrs
Market Experience
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The Calatrava Collection
Every generation.
Every configuration.
Ref. 96 — The Original (1932–1973)
Ref. 96 · Cal. LeCoultre ébauche → 12-120 → 27-AM-400 · 31mm · Manual wind · Sub-seconds at 6
The watch Patek Philippe introduced in 1932 that defined the dress watch aesthetic for the entire industry. Bauhaus-inspired: flat bezel, integrated tapered lugs, simple dial with applied gold indices and sub-seconds at 6 o'clock. In continuous production for over 40 years across multiple dial configurations — sector dials, enamel dials, Breguet numerals, applied batons, and the extraordinary steel cased examples. The long "Patek Philippe & Co." dial signature predates 1948; the short signature follows. Dial originality and movement authenticity are the primary factors in any evaluation. Every version is purchased.
Ref. 530 & Ref. 565 — Larger Vintage Calatravas
Ref. 530 (1938–1969) · Ref. 565 (1938–1980) · ~35mm · Manual wind · Multiple movement options
The ref. 530 was a larger 35mm interpretation of the Calatrava ideal — broader flat bezel, bold lugs, available in multiple dial configurations including sector dials and Breguet numerals. Produced in steel as well as precious metals, with steel examples commanding the most serious collector attention. The ref. 565 introduced the first truly waterproof monocoque case design to the Calatrava line — with the bezel, case, and lugs as an integrated unit — and was also among the first to be produced serially in steel. Multiple dial and movement generations across each reference's long production run.
Ref. 570 — The "Calatravone" (1938–1972)
Ref. 570 · Cal. 12-120 → 27 SC · ~35.5mm · Manual wind · Sub-seconds or center seconds · Multiple dials
The largest of the classic Calatrava family — nicknamed "Calatravone" (Italian for "big Calatrava") for its generous proportions relative to the era. Broad flat bezel, bold polished lugs, and a wide range of dial configurations: sector dials, baton indices, Breguet numerals, enamel dials, two-hand versions. Produced in stainless steel as well as yellow gold and white gold. The oversized proportions that made it unusual in the 1940s make it highly wearable today, and steel examples in particular have become serious collector targets.
Ref. 2526 — The First Automatic (1953–1960)
Ref. 2526 · Cal. 12-600AT (first in-house Patek auto) · 36mm · Enamel dial · Screw-down caseback · ~2,500 produced
The first self-winding Patek Philippe Calatrava — and among the first automatic movements Patek produced in-house. Approximately 2,500 made across yellow, rose, white gold, and platinum. The case is notably different from the classic tapered-lug Calatrava: it has a rounded bezel and a screw-down caseback. Most famously, these came fitted with exquisite fired vitreous enamel dials — a technically demanding process that produces extraordinarily vivid, jewel-like dial surfaces. Among the most collectible postwar Pateks across any collection. Purchased at full collector recognition of their rarity and the significance of the enamel.
Ref. 3520 & Ref. 3796 — The Hobnail Era
Ref. 3520 (1965–2008) · Ref. 3796 (1982–1999) · ~32–33mm · Cal. 175 → 177 → 215 PS · Clous de Paris hobnail bezel
The ref. 3520 launched in 1965 as the "flattest waterproof watch in the world" — but in 1973, Patek introduced a variant with the Clous de Paris (hobnail) guilloché bezel that would define the modern Calatrava. That 1973 hobnail variant became so iconic it is considered by many the archetypal modern Calatrava, paired with straight polished lugs, Roman numeral dial, and leaf-style "feuille" hands. The ref. 3520 ran until ~2008. The ref. 3796 (1982–1999) continued the original ref. 96 design lineage with Cal. 215 PS. Both are well-loved neo-vintage references. The hobnail bezel became one of the most enduring design signatures in the Calatrava's history — carried directly into the 3919, 5119, and today's 6119.
Ref. 3919 — Hobnail Classic (1985–2006)
Ref. 3919 · Cal. 215 PS · 33mm · Yellow, white, or rose gold · Clous de Paris bezel · Roman numerals · Leaf hands
The production successor to the ref. 3520 — the same elegant small round case with Clous de Paris hobnail bezel, Roman numeral dial, and signature "feuille" hands. Produced from 1985 to 2006 in yellow, white, and rose gold. Slim, refined, and deeply traditional. Available in multiple dial configurations; the standard white dial with yellow gold is the most commonly seen, but early examples and unusual color combinations command collector interest. Succeeded by the ref. 5119 in 2006 and the 6119 in the current collection.
Ref. 3960 — Officer's Watch, 150th Anniversary (1989)
Ref. 3960 · Cal. 215 PS · Yellow gold (2,000), white gold (150), platinum (50) · Hinged hunter caseback · Sector dial
Produced for Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary in 1989 — the watch that defined the modern Officer's Watch format for the collection. Hunter-style hinged solid caseback opens to reveal an engraved inner caseback. Scrolled lugs, large onion crown, sector dial with small seconds. Limited production: 2,000 in yellow gold, 150 in white gold, and only 50 in platinum. The white gold and platinum examples are genuinely rare. Purchased at full premium recognition of the limited nature and the Officer's Watch pedigree that this reference established.
Ref. 5196 — The Modern Ref. 96 (2004–2022)
5196J · 5196G · 5196R · 5196P · Cal. 215 PS · 37mm · Manual wind · Sub-seconds at 6 · Two-piece case · 2004–2022
The direct modern descendant of the original 1932 ref. 96 — produced from 2004 to 2022, proportionally updated to 37mm, with the same philosophy: flat bezel, tapered integrated lugs, sub-seconds at 6. Available in yellow, white, and rose gold with baton hour indices, and in platinum (5196P) with a two-tone silver sector dial, Breguet Arabic numerals, and a distinctive opaline finish. The 5196P is broadly considered one of the most collectible modern dress watches in the world. Tiffany & Co.-signed examples add further collector premium. All metals purchased; the platinum is a priority acquisition.
Ref. 5116 / 5119 / 6119 — Hobnail, Updated (2006–Present)
5116G · 5116R · 5119J · 5119G · 5119R · 6119G · 6119R · Cal. 215 PS → 30-255 PS · 36–39mm · Manual wind · Hobnail bezel
The modern hobnail Calatravas, descended directly from the 3520 and 3919. The ref. 5116 (2009) is the enamel-dial hobnail Calatrava — grand feu fired enamel in white or rose gold, considerably rarer and more valuable than its lacquered sibling. The ref. 5119 (2006) updated dimensions to 36mm with a lacquered white Roman numeral dial in yellow, white, and rose gold. The ref. 6119 (2019) grew to 39mm with the new Cal. 30-255 PS — twin barrels, 65-hour power reserve, and updated faceted obus-style hour markers replacing leaf hands. All purchased; 5116 enamel examples at full premium.
Ref. 5227 — Officer's Calatrava (2013–Present)
5227G · 5227J · 5227R · Cal. 324 S C · 39mm · Self-winding · Date · Hinged officer's caseback · Dust cover
The Officer's Watch in the modern Calatrava collection — a 39mm automatic with date and a sapphire caseback protected by a hinged dust cover with invisible hinge, a sophisticated technical solution for the déguisé ("disguised") case. Available in white gold with ivory or black dial, yellow gold, and rose gold. The tapered lug profile references the classic ref. 96, while the automatic Cal. 324 S C with central rotor is a thoroughly modern movement. A broadly coveted reference among collectors who appreciate the Officer's Watch tradition without the quirkiness of the ref. 5153.
Ref. 5296 / 5226 / 6007 — Automatic Date Models
5296G/R · 5226G · 6007G · Cal. 324 S C or 26-330 S C · 38–40mm · Self-winding · Sweep seconds · Date
The contemporary automatic Calatravas with date complications. The 5296 is available in white and rose gold with sector dials or silver dials, continuing the Calatrava's classic language. The 5226 (2022) is a notably more contemporary design — hobnail guilloché pattern on the entire case circumference, textured charcoal dial with gradient rim, a vivid break from tradition. The 6007 (2019) has the same modern proportions with a distinctive embossed carbon-pattern dial in black, with yellow accent hands. Multiple dial variants available. All purchased.
Ref. 5153 & 5180 — Officer's & Skeleton
5153R · 5153G · Cal. 324 S C · 38mm · Automatic · Scrolled lugs · Officer's case | 5180 Skeleton · Cal. 240
The 5153 is the current production Officer's Watch with scrolled lugs — a more idiosyncratic and traditional reference than the 5227, with architectural scrolled lug forms and a hinged solid caseback revealing a case that closely follows the ref. 3960's spirit. The 5180 (Calatrava Skeleton) takes a different direction entirely — the dial opening is replaced by an intricate openwork movement, ultra-thin Cal. 240 skeleton, revealing the going train and bridges. An unusual and technically impressive Calatrava expression. Both references purchased.
Ref. 5212A — Weekly Calendar (2019–Present)
5212A-001 · Cal. 26-330 S C J SE · 40mm · Stainless steel · Self-winding · Day · Date · Week number · Month
The most unusual modern Calatrava — the first watch Patek has produced with a weekly calendar complication. Notable for its stainless steel case (extremely rare for a non-sport Calatrava), its stepped two-tier lugs inspired by the one-of-a-kind 1955 ref. 2512, and most distinctively, its dial featuring handwritten-style custom typeface for all calendar numerals and letters. Five central hands including two red-tipped hammer hands for day and week number. A genuine statement of personality in a collection that is typically defined by restraint. A collectors' piece even within the Calatrava family.
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time — Ref. 5524
5524G · 5524R · Cal. 26-330 S C FUS · 42mm · Self-winding · Travel Time · Date · Patented crown adjustment
The most unconventional member of the Calatrava collection — a 42mm pilot-style watch with a round Calatrava case, oversized crown guards, and a Travel Time complication that displays home and local time simultaneously. Inspired by vintage aviation timepieces, it features a broad bezel, bold sword hands filled with luminous material, and screw-down pushers for time zone adjustment. Available in white gold (black or ivory dial) and rose gold. It challenges every assumption about what a Calatrava should be — and is more wearable than its unusual concept might suggest.
Ref. 5224 & 5326 — Travel Time Complications (2022–Present)
5224R-001 · Cal. 31-260 PS FUS 24H · 42mm · Rose Gold | 5326G-001 · Annual Calendar Travel Time · White Gold
Two of the most technically sophisticated modern Calatravas. The 5224R (2023) is a 24-hour display travel time in a 42mm rose gold Calatrava case — two zones displayed via a 24-hour analog ring, with a patented crown-based correction system (no pushers). The 5326G (2022) combines Patek's annual calendar complication with a travel time display in white gold — requiring only one correction per year at the Feb/March transition. Both represent the growing complexity within the Calatrava format and are purchased with full complication recognition.
Ref. 5328G — 8-Day Calatrava (2025)
5328G-001 · Cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J · White gold · 40mm · 8-day power reserve · Day-date · Silinvar Pulsomax
The newest major addition to the Calatrava collection — introduced at Watches & Wonders 2025. An 8-day power reserve manual-wind movement with instantaneous jumping day-date display, equipped with Patek's proprietary Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar for exceptional accuracy and longevity. Hobnail guilloché pattern across the entire case circumference. Textured blue dial with gradient rim. A complication-focused Calatrava that puts technical depth in a classic dress watch case. Among the most consequential new Calatrava introductions in years.
Ladies' Calatrava — Ref. 4897 & 4997 Family
4897G · 4897R · 4997/200G · 4997/200R · 7119 · 7120 · 7122 · Cal. 215 PS / 240 · 33–35mm · Diamond bezel
The ladies' Calatrava family covers a wide range — from the classic 4897 in white or rose gold with diamond-set bezel and guilloché dial, to the current 4997/200G and 4997/200R with 76 internally flawless diamonds on the bezel. The 7119 and 7120 carry the hobnail bezel in ladies' proportions (31mm). The 7122 adds diamond setting in rose or white gold. All are purchased with full recognition of diamond quality and case metal. Patek's gem-setting on the Calatrava bezel is a benchmark of craftsmanship; we evaluate each example gemologically.
Haute Joaillerie & Rare Handcrafts Calatravas
Ref. 4899 · Ref. 5089 · Ref. 5088 · Enamel · Cloisonné · Azulejos · Pavé Diamond · Cal. 240 · 35–39mm
The most extraordinary expressions in the Calatrava collection — where watchmaking meets fine art. The ref. 5089 carries cloisonné, champlevé, or painted enamel dials depicting subjects from butterflies to Delft-inspired azulejos tilework. The ref. 5088 features volute arabesques or geometric motifs on enamel or guilloché. The ref. 4899 (ladies) is a fully paved Haute Joaillerie automatic. These are purchased with the understanding that their value is multi-dimensional: horology, enamel art, and gem-setting are all independently assessed. Each example is unique or near-unique in its decoration.
Collector Terminology
The names collectors use.
What they actually mean.
96
"The 96"
Ref. 96 · 1932–1973 · The founding reference
Simply "the 96" — shorthand among Patek collectors for the original 1932 reference that launched the Calatrava. The first Patek Philippe to carry a numbered reference. When a collector says "I have a 96," they mean a genuine 1932–1973 original, not a later homage. The ref. 3796 (successor, 1982) is sometimes called "the new 96" to distinguish it.
BH
Bauhaus / "Pure" Calatrava
Ref. 96 · Ref. 3796 · Ref. 5196 · Plain bezel, stick or applied indices
Collectors use "Bauhaus" to describe the purist flat-bezel, simple-index versions of the Calatrava — as distinguished from the hobnail-bezel variants. Bauhaus design principles (form follows function, minimal ornamentation) directly inspired David Penney's 1932 design. The ref. 5196 in yellow, white, or rose gold is the current production Bauhaus Calatrava. The platinum 5196P, while more decorated, is still grouped in this camp.
HB
Hobnail / "Clous de Paris"
Ref. 3520 · Ref. 3919 · Ref. 5119 · Ref. 6119 · Ref. 5116 · Ref. 5120
"Hobnail" or "Clous de Paris" (French for "Paris nails") refers to the guilloché bezel pattern introduced on the ref. 3520 in 1973 — a grid of small pyramid-shaped depressions that catch and scatter light. This pattern became the defining design signature of one branch of the modern Calatrava and continues today on the 6119, 5226, and 5328. Roman numeral dials and leaf hands typically accompany the hobnail bezel, creating a distinct, slightly more traditional look than the plain bezel models.
OW
Officer's Watch / "Déguisé"
Ref. 3960 · Ref. 5153 · Ref. 5227 · Ref. 7200 (ladies)
The "Officer's Watch" or "Montre d'Officier" designation refers to Calatravas with a solid or hinged caseback — most classically with scrolled lugs and an onion crown. The term "déguisé" ("disguised") refers to modern examples like the 5227 where the caseback hinge is invisible when closed. The tradition traces back to 19th century military pocket watches. Within the Calatrava, the ref. 3960 (150th anniversary) established this modern Officer's Watch format; the 5153 and 5227 carry it forward today.
SC
Sector Dial
Ref. 96 variants · Ref. 570 variants · Ref. 5196P · Ref. 5296G-001
A "sector dial" (also called "scientific dial") divides the dial surface into horizontal bands or sectors — typically a concentric zone for the hours separate from the minutes track, often with contrast between zones. In the Calatrava world, sector dials are among the most sought-after vintage configurations, particularly on the ref. 96 and 570. The modern 5196P has the most celebrated contemporary sector dial — a two-tone platinum treatment with Breguet Arabic numerals that is widely considered the most beautiful modern Calatrava dial.
EN
Enamel Dial
Ref. 2526 · Ref. 5089 · Ref. 5088 · Ref. 4899 · Cloisonné · Champlevé · Painted
Enamel dials are among the most technically demanding and valuable dial types in watchmaking. The ref. 2526 (first automatic Calatrava, 1953) came with enamel dials; modern examples appear in the Rare Handcrafts series. "Cloisonné" enamel uses gold wire to create cells filled with enamel of different colors. "Champlevé" carves recesses into the metal for enamel. "Painted" enamel applies directly to a white enamel base. Each enamel dial is essentially a unique artwork. Condition of the enamel surface is paramount — chips or cracks dramatically affect value.
PT
"Pilot" / Calatravone
Ref. 5524 — Calatrava Pilot Travel Time · Ref. 570 — "Calatravone"
"Calatravone" is the nickname for the ref. 570 — Italian diminutive for "big Calatrava," coined because of its unusually large proportions relative to its era. Today, "Pilot" refers specifically to the ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time — Patek's aviation-inspired Calatrava with oversized crown guards and sword hands. The two uses of the aviation/size nickname across eras demonstrate how the Calatrava has always had a larger-format branch alongside the classic slim dress models.
WC
Weekly Calendar / "The 5212"
Ref. 5212A-001 · Steel · 2019 · Handwritten typeface
The 5212A is referred to simply as "the Weekly Calendar" or "the 5212" — Patek's first and only weekly calendar complication, combining day, date, week number, and month in a steel Calatrava case. Notable for its handwritten-style custom typeface created from a designer's actual handwriting — the most distinctive dial typography on any modern Patek. Also unusual for its steel case, a material Patek almost never uses for the Calatrava. A self-contained collector's reference with no predecessor and no successor yet announced.
HJ
Haute Joaillerie
Ref. 4899 · Ref. 5089 · Ref. 4997/200G · Diamond Bezel · Pavé · Invisible Setting
"Haute Joaillerie" within the Calatrava family refers to the most intensively gem-set expressions — pavé diamond cases, enamel dials with gem-set borders, and fully paved bezels with internally flawless diamonds. The 4899 ladies automatic is fully paved; the 5089 series combines Patek's enamel artistry with the Calatrava case. The 4997 current ladies models use 76 IF diamonds on the bezel. Purchased with gemological assessment alongside horological valuation.
T&C
Tiffany-Signed Calatrava
Select 5196 · Select 5119 · Select 5227 · "Tiffany & Co." at 6 o'clock · Verify against Extract
Select Calatrava references were produced with a "Tiffany & Co." retailer co-signature at 6 o'clock — a tradition rooted in the 170-year relationship between Patek Philippe and Tiffany. Tiffany-signed Calatravas are notably collectible; a platinum 5196P with Tiffany signature has achieved extraordinary auction results. Any claimed Tiffany signature must be verified against the Extract from the Archives to confirm it is original, not added after production. We evaluate Tiffany co-signed Calatravas with full premium recognition.
What We Look For
Details that determine
the difference.
Dial Signature — Long vs. Short
Vintage ref. 96 dials carry either the long "Patek Philippe & Co." or the shorter "Patek Philippe" signature. Patek transitioned to the short signature around 1948. Earlier long-signature examples are generally more desirable to specialist collectors. The enamel condition of the signature inlay is critical — chips in the lettering significantly affect value. Condition of the signature is one of the first things examined on any ref. 96.
Sector Dials — Scientific Configuration
Sector dials divide the dial into concentric zones — typically a silvered outer minute track and a darker inner hour zone, often with contrasting finishes. On the vintage ref. 96, 530, and 570, sector dials command a meaningful premium over standard plain dials. The modern 5196P carries the most celebrated contemporary sector treatment. Authenticity must be confirmed — dial refinishing is common on vintage pieces and will be identified against the Extract from the Archives.
Breguet vs. Applied Baton Numerals
The Calatrava has been produced with multiple index types across its history: applied gold trapezoidal or baton indices; Roman numerals (particularly with the hobnail bezel); Arabic Breguet numerals (the 5196P platinum is the defining modern example); and on some vintage pieces, luminous applied Arabic numerals. Different index configurations in the same reference generation may have significantly different values. The Breguet Arabic numerals on the 5196P are among the most visually distinctive in the modern collection.
Enamel Dial Condition
On any Calatrava with a cloisonné, champlevé, or painted enamel dial — from the vintage 2526 to the modern 5089 Rare Handcrafts — the condition of the enamel surface is paramount. Hairline cracks ("crazing"), chips at the edges, or color fading all affect value significantly. Enamel repairs are possible but detectable; undamaged original enamel in fine condition is rare and commands a substantial premium. We examine every enamel dial with magnification before providing an assessment.
Case Metal Identification
Vintage Calatravas were produced in yellow gold, white gold, platinum, and stainless steel. Steel examples are the rarest in almost every vintage Calatrava reference — produced in very limited quantities and commanding the most significant collector premiums. Case back engravings may include gold purity marks and assay hallmarks. On vintage pieces, the case metal should be consistent throughout (case, caseback, lugs) — mismatched components significantly reduce value and indicate potential rebuilds.
Movement Originality
The Calatrava has been fitted with many movement generations: LeCoultre ébauche (earliest ref. 96), Cal. 12-120, Cal. 27-AM-400, Cal. 177 (ref. 3520), Cal. 215 PS (ref. 3796, 3919, 5196), Cal. 30-255 PS (6119), Cal. 324 S C (5227, 5153), and many others. Movement originality to the case — confirmed where possible against the Extract from the Archives — is important. Movement swaps reduce value; the serial number should correspond to the production period of the reference.
Caseback — Solid, Exhibition, Officer's, Déguisé
Calatrava casebacks vary considerably across the collection's history and have significant impact on collectability. Solid casebacks (standard on many classics) were followed by sapphire exhibition casebacks showing the movement. Officer's watches have hinged solid casebacks. The ref. 5227's "déguisé" caseback has an invisible hinge — closed it appears solid, open it reveals the sapphire. Caseback condition on Officer's watches is important as hinges can develop play with age. We assess all caseback types.
Case Polishing — The Surface Destroyer
Over-polishing is one of the most common and most damaging things that happens to vintage Calatravas. The original crisp case angles, lug profiles, and bezel edges are softened and rounded by careless buffing. A well-preserved unpolished Calatrava with original sharp edges and natural patina is fundamentally more valuable than a highly polished example of the same reference. We specifically look for unpolished or correctly maintained examples and will note any case profile distortion in our assessment.
Retailer Co-Signatures
Beyond Tiffany & Co., Patek Philippe produced Calatravas with the signatures of major international retailers on the dial — Gübelin (Lucerne), Beyer (Zurich), Gobbi (Milan), and others. Each retailer co-signature has its own collector following. On vintage pieces, the signature must be original and verified against the Extract — added signatures destroy value. Original co-signatures, particularly Tiffany, add meaningful premium over unsigned examples of the same reference.
Extract from the Archives
Patek Philippe's Extract from the Archives certifies the original factory specification of any Patek watch — reference, case metal, dial description, caliber, and original sale date. For Calatravas, the Extract confirms original dial type (critical for enamel and sector dial authentication), metal specification, and any retailer co-signature. On vintage pieces especially, the Extract is central to establishing authenticity and confirming that no dial or movement swaps have occurred.
Reference Directory
The Calatrava, reference by reference.
Vintage — The Original (Ref. 96 & Related, 1932–1973)
Ref. 96 — Original Calatrava (1932–1973)
The founding reference; 31mm; Cal. LeCoultre ébauche (early) → 12-120 → 27-AM-400; flat bezel; tapered integrated lugs; sub-seconds at 6; produced for 40+ years in yellow gold, white gold, platinum, and steel; multiple dial configurations including sector, plain, Breguet Arabic, and enamel; long signature pre-1948, short signature after
Ref. 96 — Sector Dial Variants
Ref. 96 with concentric sector dial — divided into inner hour zone and outer minute track with contrasting finishes; among the most sought-after vintage Calatrava dial configurations; steel examples with sector dials represent the apex of the reference; dial originality essential, Extract confirmation recommended
Ref. 96 — Steel Case
Stainless steel variants of the ref. 96; extremely limited production; among the rarest and most valuable configurations in the entire Calatrava family; steel Patek Philippe dress watches from this era are rarities pursued by the most serious vintage Patek collectors worldwide
Ref. 438 — Screw-Down Waterproof (1935–1949)
First waterproof Calatrava; 28mm "boy-size" case; screw-down caseback; same basic ref. 96 design language in a smaller package; Taubert case collaboration; relatively rare in the market
Ref. 530 — Large Calatrava (1938–1969)
~35mm; larger interpretation of the ref. 96 design; bold lugs; produced in yellow gold, white gold, and steel; sector dials and various index configurations; steel examples highly prized; long production with multiple dial generations
Ref. 565 — Monocoque Waterproof (1938–1980)
First large serially-produced waterproof Calatrava; integrated bezel-case-lug monocoque construction; ~35mm; produced in steel (early) and precious metals; multiple dial configurations including sector, luminous, Breguet, military-inspired; unusual angular case design more modern than contemporaries
Ref. 570 — "Calatravone" (1938–1972)
~35.5mm; the largest classic Calatrava; Cal. 12-120 → 27 SC; flat bezel; bold polished lugs; sub-seconds or center seconds; enamel dials, sector dials, Breguet numerals, baton indices all produced; yellow gold, white gold, and steel; steel examples are top-tier collector targets; nickname "Calatravone" — Italian for large Calatrava
Ref. 2526 — First Automatic, Enamel Dial (1953–1960)
First self-winding Calatrava; Cal. 12-600AT (first in-house Patek automatic movement); 36mm; rounded bezel; screw-down caseback; enamel dials — fired vitreous enamel; approximately 2,500 total produced across yellow, rose, white gold and platinum; among the most collectible postwar Pateks across the entire brand; enamel condition is paramount; four series with subtle dial and caseback differences
Ref. 2545 / 2555 — Waterproof 96-Style (1950s)
Two-piece waterproof case carrying the ref. 96 design language; 32mm; Cal. 27 SC; produced for a short time, appear rarely at auction; center seconds variant is ref. 2555; understated in the market relative to their historical significance
Ref. 3445 — Automatic with Date (1961–1982)
First Calatrava with automatic movement and date; Cal. 27-460M; 35mm; unusual angled lug design; disc-shaped ("Disco Volante") case silhouette; three production series over 21 years; the complication-Calatrava milestone before the modern era; produced across a range of dial configurations in yellow, white, and rose gold
Neo-Vintage — Refs. 3520 / 3796 / 3919 / 3960 (1973–2006)
Ref. 3520 — Hobnail Pioneer (1965–2008)
Cal. 175 (early) → Cal. 177; ~32mm; launched 1965 as "the flattest waterproof watch in the world"; from 1973, a hobnail bezel variant introduced the Clous de Paris guilloché that became the most consequential Calatrava design development since the ref. 96; straight polished lugs; Roman numeral dial; baton hands; the archetypal modern Calatrava in the eyes of many collectors; flat bezel version also produced throughout its run
Ref. 3796 — Successor to Ref. 96 (1982–1999)
Cal. 215 PS; compact 31mm size continuing ref. 96 design philosophy; flat bezel; tapered integrated lugs; sub-seconds at 6; yellow and white gold; the direct production successor to the original 1932 reference; produced alongside the 3919 for much of its run; succeeded by the ref. 5196 in 2004
Ref. 3919G — Hobnail, White Gold
Cal. 215 PS; 33mm; white gold; hobnail bezel; Roman numerals; leaf hands; produced 1985–2006; the elegant small Calatrava that connected neo-vintage to the modern era; succeeded by ref. 5119
Ref. 3919J — Hobnail, Yellow Gold
Cal. 215 PS; 33mm; yellow gold; hobnail bezel; most commonly encountered 3919 configuration; produced 1985–2006
Ref. 3919R — Hobnail, Rose Gold
Cal. 215 PS; 33mm; rose gold; hobnail bezel; less common than yellow or white gold versions of the same reference
Ref. 3960 — 150th Anniversary Officer's (1989)
Cal. 215 PS; yellow gold (2,000), white gold (150), platinum (50); hinged hunter caseback with engraved inner caseback; scrolled lugs; large onion crown; sector dial; small seconds; the reference that defined the modern Officer's Watch format in the Calatrava collection; white gold and platinum are genuinely rare — purchased at full premium
Modern — Ref. 5196 Bauhaus Line (2004–2022)
5196J-001 — Yellow Gold, Stick Indices
Cal. 215 PS; 37mm; 9.1mm; yellow gold; silvered dial with applied yellow gold baton indices; sub-seconds at 6; sapphire caseback; direct modern descendant of the ref. 96
5196G-001 — White Gold, Stick Indices
Cal. 215 PS; 37mm; white gold; silvered dial; applied white gold baton indices
5196R-001 — Rose Gold, Stick Indices
Cal. 215 PS; 37mm; rose gold; silvered dial with applied rose gold indices; warm tone version of the classic 5196
5196P-001 — Platinum, Two-Tone Sector Dial, Breguet Arabic Numerals
Cal. 215 PS; 37mm; platinum; two-tone silvered/grey sector dial; applied Breguet Arabic numerals; considered by many the most desirable modern dress watch produced by any manufacturer; Tiffany & Co.-signed examples are particularly sought; sub-seconds at 6; a priority acquisition at all times
5196 — Tiffany & Co. Signed Variants
Any 5196 (J, G, R, or P) with "Tiffany & Co." co-signature at 6 o'clock; retailer signature commands a collector premium; the platinum Tiffany 5196P has achieved extraordinary auction results; must be verified against the Extract from the Archives
Hobnail Line — Refs. 5116 / 5119 / 5120 / 6119 (2001–Present)
5116G-001 — White Gold, Enamel Dial, Hobnail Bezel (2009–2022)
Cal. 215 PS; 36mm; white gold; hobnail bezel; white grand feu enamel dial with black Roman numerals; sapphire caseback; the enamel dial version of the hobnail Calatrava in white gold — distinguished from the lacquered 5119 by its fired enamel surface, which commands a premium; discontinued 2022
5116R-001 — Rose Gold, Enamel Dial, Hobnail Bezel (2013–2022)
Cal. 215 PS; 36mm; rose gold; hobnail bezel; white grand feu enamel dial with black Roman numerals; sapphire caseback; introduced 2013 as the rose gold companion to the 5116G; warm-toned enamel Calatrava; Tiffany & Co.-signed examples known; discontinued 2022
5120G-001 — White Gold, No Seconds, Automatic (2001–2016)
Cal. 240; 35mm; white gold; ultra-thin automatic; no seconds indication; hobnail bezel; sapphire caseback; the slim Calatrava automatic with hobnail bezel — a distinct combination
5119J-001 — Yellow Gold, Hobnail Bezel (2006–2019)
Cal. 215 PS; 36mm; yellow gold; hobnail bezel; Roman numerals; leaf-style "feuille" hands; sapphire caseback; direct successor to ref. 3919J
5119G-001 — White Gold, Hobnail Bezel (2006–2019)
Cal. 215 PS; 36mm; white gold; hobnail bezel; Roman numerals; leaf hands; sapphire caseback; succeeded by ref. 6119G
5119R-001 — Rose Gold, Hobnail Bezel (2006–2019)
Cal. 215 PS; 36mm; rose gold; hobnail bezel; Roman numerals; leaf hands
6119G-001 — White Gold, Charcoal Dial, Hobnail Bezel (2019–Present)
Cal. 30-255 PS; 39mm; 8.1mm; white gold; charcoal gray vertically satin-finished dial; white gold obus-style hour markers; dauphine hands; hobnail guilloché bezel; 65-hour power reserve; current production; significantly larger and more refined than 5119
6119R-001 — Rose Gold, Silvery Grained Dial, Hobnail Bezel (2019–Present)
Cal. 30-255 PS; 39mm; rose gold; silvery grained dial; rose gold obus markers; hobnail bezel; 65-hour power reserve; warm rose gold treatment of the current hobnail Calatrava
Officer's Calatrava — Refs. 5227 & 5153 (2009–Present)
5227G-001 — White Gold, Ivory Dial, Déguisé Caseback
Cal. 324 S C; 39mm; white gold; ivory lacquered dial; white gold applied trapeze indices; sapphire caseback with invisible hinged dust cover (déguisé); date at 3; current production; the most refined modern Officer's Calatrava
5227G-010 — White Gold, Black Dial
Cal. 324 S C; 39mm; white gold; lacquered black dial; white gold applied indices; déguisé caseback; date; current production; dramatic contrast dial version of the 5227G
5227J-001 — Yellow Gold, Silver Dial
Cal. 324 S C; 39mm; yellow gold; silvered dial; yellow gold indices; déguisé caseback; date
5227R-001 — Rose Gold, Ivory Dial
Cal. 324 S C; 39mm; rose gold; ivory lacquered dial; rose gold indices; déguisé caseback; date
5153R-001 — Rose Gold, Scrolled Lugs, Officer's Case
Cal. 324 S C; 38mm; rose gold; scrolled lugs; hinged solid caseback; silvered opaline dial; automatic with center seconds and date; more architectural lug design than 5227; the more idiosyncratic Officer's Watch in the current lineup
5153G-001 — White Gold, Scrolled Lugs
Cal. 324 S C; 38mm; white gold; scrolled lugs; Officer's hinged caseback; silvered dial
Automatic with Date — Refs. 5296 / 5226 / 6007 (2005–Present)
5296G-001 — White Gold, Sector Dial ("Scientific")
Cal. 324 S C; 38mm; white gold; silvered sector dial with concentric zone construction; applied trapeze hour markers; sweep seconds; date; the most classically styled of the automatic 5296 family
5296G-010 — White Gold, Plain Silvered Dial
Cal. 324 S C; 38mm; white gold; plain silvered dial; applied indices; sweep seconds; date
5296R-001 — Rose Gold, Sector Dial
Cal. 324 S C; 38mm; rose gold; sector dial; applied rose gold indices; sweep seconds; date
5296R-010 — Rose Gold, Plain Silvered Dial
Cal. 324 S C; 38mm; rose gold; plain silvered dial; sweep seconds; date
5226G-001 — White Gold, Hobnail Caseband, Textured Dial (2022)
Cal. 26-330 S C; 40mm; white gold; hobnail guilloché pattern on entire case circumference; textured charcoal gray dial with gradient black rim; applied white gold numerals with beige luminescent coating; contemporary departure from the traditional Calatrava aesthetic; date; sweep seconds
6007G-001 — White Gold, Black Carbon-Pattern Dial (2019)
Cal. 26-330 S C; 40mm; white gold; ebony black dial with embossed carbon-pattern center; three finishing types on dial surface; yellow accent on seconds and triangle hour markers; contemporary Calatrava with sportive detailing; date; sweep seconds
6007G-010 — White Gold, "Celadon" Green Dial (2023)
Cal. 26-330 S C; 40mm; white gold; soft green celadon-toned dial; same architecture as 6007G-001 with more serene colorway; date; sweep seconds
Modern Collector — Refs. 6006 / 6196 / 5298 (2016–Present)
6006G-001 — White Gold, Black Dial, Offset Seconds, Peripheral Date (2016)
Cal. 240 PS C; 38mm; white gold; black lacquered dial; offset small seconds; central date hand pointing to peripheral date ring around the outer dial; a design breakthrough for the Calatrava — the most unconventional dial layout the collection had seen in decades; high contrast aesthetic
6196P-001 — Platinum, Rose-Gilt Opaline Dial (2025)
Cal. 30-255 PS; 38mm; platinum; opaline rose-gilt dial; anthracite charcoal grey "obus" hour markers in white gold; dauphine hands; diamond set at 6 o'clock position; satin-finished flanks on polished case; 65-hour power reserve; stop-seconds; one of the most distinguished current Calatrava introductions
5298P-010 — Platinum, Skeleton Openwork Dial
Platinum; Cal. 240 skeleton; ultra-thin openwork movement visible through the dial aperture; the Calatrava Skeleton in its most refined configuration; technical beauty in a dress watch case
5298P-012 — Platinum, Enamel Dial
Platinum; enamel dial in the modern Calatrava case; rare handcraft enamel work; purchased with full gemological and artisanal recognition of the enamel's value as an independent artistic achievement
Calatrava Complications — Weekly / Travel / Annual / 8-Day (2019–Present)
5212A-001 — Weekly Calendar, Steel (2019)
Cal. 26-330 S C J SE; 40mm; stainless steel; self-winding; displays day, date, week number, and month with five central hands; two red-tipped hammer hands; custom handwritten-style typeface; stepped two-tier lugs; Patek's first and only weekly calendar — a true original within the Calatrava collection
5224R-001 — Travel Time 24-Hour Display, Rose Gold (2023)
Cal. 31-260 PS FUS 24H; 42mm; rose gold; two-zone time display with 24-hour analog ring; patented crown-based correction system (no pusher buttons); blue calfskin strap; five hands; modern interpretation of the travel time complication in a Calatrava case inspired by the 5212A lug design
5326G-001 — Annual Calendar Travel Time, White Gold (2022)
Cal. 31-260 PS FUS; 42mm; white gold; combines annual calendar (day, date, month — one correction per year) with travel time display; eight patent filings; complex dual-complication Calatrava; requires correction only at Feb/March transition
5328G-001 — 8-Day Power Reserve, Day-Date, White Gold (2025)
Cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J; 40mm; white gold; manually wound; 8-day power reserve; instantaneous jumping day and date display; Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar; hobnail guilloché on entire case circumference; textured blue dial; one of the most technically significant Calatrava introductions in the modern era
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time — Ref. 5524 (2015–Present)
5524G-001 — White Gold, Black Dial
Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; 42mm; white gold; black lacquered dial; applied numerals with luminescent coating; sword hands with lume; crown guards; Travel Time with solid/skeleton hour hands; date; the most formal of the pilot configurations
5524G-010 — White Gold, Ivory Dial, Khaki Strap
Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; 42mm; white gold; ivory lacquered dial; blackened numerals; khaki green composite strap; vintage aviation aesthetic; the most evocative and historically referential of the pilot variants
5524R-001 — Rose Gold, Black Dial
Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; 42mm; rose gold; black lacquered dial; sword hands with luminescent coating; Travel Time; date; the warm metal version of the pilot Calatrava — an unusual but compelling combination
Ladies' Calatrava — Refs. 4897 / 4997 / 7119 / 7200 Family (Current & Recent)
4897G — Ladies White Gold, Diamond Bezel, Guilloché Dial
Cal. 215 PS; 33mm; white gold; diamond-set bezel; guilloché patterned dial; manual wind; sub-seconds; sapphire caseback; the classic ladies' Calatrava with diamond bezel — available in multiple dial colors
4897R — Ladies Rose Gold, Diamond Bezel
Cal. 215 PS; 33mm; rose gold; diamond bezel; guilloché dial; chocolate or cream dial variants; manual wind
4997/200G-001 — Ladies White Gold, 76-Diamond Bezel, Blue Dial (Current)
Self-winding; white gold; midnight blue lacquered dial; 76 internally flawless brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel; current production ladies' Calatrava at the top of the gem-set range; evaluated with gemological assessment of diamond quality
4997/200R-001 — Ladies Rose Gold, Diamond Bezel (2023)
Self-winding; rose gold; diamond bezel; introduced at Watches & Wonders 2023; the current rose gold ladies' Calatrava with the high-specification diamond bezel
7119G — Ladies White Gold, Hobnail Bezel
Cal. 215 PS; 31mm; white gold; hobnail guilloché bezel; Roman numerals; the ladies' hobnail Calatrava
7119J — Ladies Yellow Gold, Hobnail Bezel
Cal. 215 PS; 31mm; yellow gold; hobnail bezel; off-white Roman numeral dial; leaf hands; warm yellow gold treatment
7120G — Ladies White Gold Calatrava, No Bezel Diamond
Manual wind; white gold; classic ladies' Calatrava without diamond bezel; clean dress watch proportions
7122 — Ladies Diamond Calatrava, Rose or White Gold
Manual wind; rose or white gold; diamond-set bezel and/or case sides; available in multiple configurations; purchased with full gemological assessment
7200R — Ladies Officer's Watch, Rose Gold
Cal. 240; rose gold; Officer's style case with screwed bars; hinged caseback; the ladies' Officer's Watch — connecting the Calatrava's long Officer's Watch tradition to the ladies' collection
4899 — Ladies Haute Joaillerie Automatic
Cal. 240; automatic; ~35.8mm; white gold; fully paved case with diamonds; some versions skeletonized or with enamel elements; "Squelette" and Haute Joaillerie configurations; the most gem-intensive automatic Calatrava produced; purchased with gemological and horological dual valuation
Rare Handcrafts, Enamel & Special Dials
5089 — Rare Handcrafts, Azulejos / Cloisonné / Special Enamel
Cal. 240; automatic; ~38.6mm; multiple metals; dial as artwork — cloisonné, champlevé, painted enamel, or Azulejos (Portuguese tile-inspired) patterns; each dial is effectively a unique artwork; purchased with full recognition of the independent artistic and craft value of the enamel; sapphire caseback
5088 — Enamel Arabesque / Decorative Arts Dial
Manual wind; precious metal; enamel dial with arabesques, volutes, or decorative motifs; two hands on a black enamel background in some versions; the reference that most directly places Calatrava in the tradition of fine decorative arts; condition of enamel is paramount
5180 — Calatrava Skeleton (Openwork)
Cal. 240 skeleton; ultra-thin automatic openwork movement; the dial aperture removed to reveal the going train and barrel bridge architecture; typically in white or rose gold; technically impressive and visually distinctive within the Calatrava collection
The Glenn Bradford Difference
Why serious Calatrava owners
call us first.
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry has spent four decades at the intersection of fine jewelry and horological expertise — buying, selling, and evaluating the world's most significant wristwatches from our flagship in Southampton, New York, and our atelier in the city. We have purchased Calatravas across the entire collection history: from early ref. 96 examples in steel with untouched original dials to the most recent 5328G and 6196P introductions, and every point between.
Whether you have inherited a vintage ref. 96, purchased a modern 5227 at retail, or assembled a focused collection over years, we are the first call — not because we are convenient, but because no one on the East Coast evaluates the Calatrava with more care, more context, or more genuine collector understanding than we do. That is a standard we have maintained for four decades and have no intention of changing.
The Process
Straightforward.
Discreet. Respectful.
01
Submit
Use the form above or contact us directly. Clear photographs of the dial, case, caseback, and any paperwork are very helpful — particularly for vintage pieces where dial condition and case originality are central to the evaluation.
02
Receive Our Assessment
We respond within 24 hours with a preliminary offer. For enamel dials, vintage references, or gem-set examples, we may ask for additional photographs before confirming a final figure.
03
Agree on Terms
No pressure, no obligation. If our offer works for you, we proceed. If you need time or have questions about our assessment, we are available to discuss — privately, by phone or in person at our Southampton boutique or New York atelier.
04
Receive Payment
Wire transfer, certified check, or in-person — your preference. We handle fully insured shipping for remote transactions, or receive the watch in person at either location. Payment is prompt and confirmed in writing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What sellers ask.
Yes. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally. Submit your piece through the form above with clear photographs of the case, dial, caseback, and any paperwork. We will provide a preliminary assessment promptly and can arrange fully insured shipping or a private appointment at our Southampton flagship boutique — whatever is most convenient for you.
Begin the Conversation
Ready to Sell Your
Patek Philippe Calatrava?
Reach us by phone, email, or through the form above. Private consultations available in Southampton and New York.