Sell Your Patek Philippe Aquanaut Watch | Expert Buyer in the Hamptons, New York | Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry · Southampton & New York
Sell Your
Patek Philippe Aquanaut.
From the 1997 original that Patek designed for a younger generation — and that generation promptly fell in love with — to the Luce, the Travel Time, the Jumbo, and every complication in between. Aquanaut collectors with nearly 40 years in the market.
Vintage 5060 Specialists
Aquanaut Luce Collectors
Travel Time · Chronograph · Jumbo
1997
First Aquanaut
5060
Original Reference
40 Yrs
Market Experience
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What We Purchase
Every Aquanaut, Every Era
Ref. 5060A & 5060J — The Original (1997)
5060A · 5060J · Cal. 330 SC · 35.6mm · ~1,000 pieces produced
Patek's boldest launch of the 1990s — the first Aquanaut reference. The 5060A in steel and 5060J in yellow gold were produced in approximately 1,000 pieces each, restricted by limited movement supply. The clasp bears the "Nautilus" signature, making it a transitional artifact of Patek's sports watch story. Early examples have a cursive date font found on no later reference. The blue-dial 5060A is believed unique. We understand the historical significance of every variation.
Refs. 5064, 5065 & 5066 — First Generation Expansion (1998–2006)
5064A (quartz, 34mm) · 5065A/J (Jumbo 38mm) · 5066A/J (exhibition caseback) · 4960A (ladies)
The Aquanaut's first growth phase. The 5065A introduced the "Jumbo" designation at 38mm — the first Aquanaut with a sapphire caseback and optional steel bracelet (5065A/1). The 5064A offered quartz at a smaller size. The 5066A refined the original 36mm case with a display caseback. Yellow gold variants of the 5065J and 5066J are genuinely rare. The transition from tritium luminescence to Super-LumiNova happened within this family — tritium examples glow particularly beautifully today.
Refs. 5165 & 5167 — The Modern Aquanaut (2007–Present)
5165A (38mm, 2007) · 5167A (40.8mm) · 5167R (rose gold) · 5167/1A (two-tone) · Cal. 315 SC → 26-330 S C
The 10th anniversary redesign that defined the modern Aquanaut. Updated case proportions, a shallower embossed dial, and the new integrated composite Tropical strap that curves to match the case. The 5165A was a single-year transitional reference (2007 only), while the 5167A has become the most collected modern Aquanaut. All variants — steel, rose gold, two-tone, and the steel 5167/1A integrated bracelet (discontinued 2025) — are purchased at full market recognition. Limited special editions include the clients-only khaki green 5167A-010 (2011) and the 500-piece Singapore red 5167A-012 (2019).
Ref. 5168G — Jumbo Aquanaut, White Gold (2017)
5168G-001 (blue) · 5168G-010 (khaki green) · 42.2mm · Cal. 26-330 S C · 20th anniversary
Introduced in 2017 for the Aquanaut's 20th anniversary, the 5168G expanded the collection to 42.2mm in solid white gold — the "Jumbo" Aquanaut. The 5168G-001 in blue launched the reference; the 5168G-010 in khaki green (2019) became an immediate sensation, widely regarded as one of the most desirable modern Aquanaut configurations. Both are purchased at full collector recognition of their rarity in white gold.
Ref. 5164 — Aquanaut Travel Time
5164A (steel, 2011–2024) · 5164R (rose gold, 2016) · 5164G (white gold) · Cal. 26-330 S C FUS
The first Aquanaut complication for the modern era — dual time display with two separate hour hands (solid for local, skeleton for home time) and day/night indicators for both zones. Intuitive push-button controls advance or retard the home time hand in one-hour increments. The 5164A in steel was discontinued in 2024; the rose gold and white gold variants continue. A practical, elegant travel watch with a devoted collector following.
Ref. 5968 — Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph
5968A (steel, 2018) · 5968G (white gold) · 5968R (rose gold) · Cal. CH 28-520 S C · 42.2mm
The first Aquanaut chronograph — introduced in 2018 with the 5968A in steel and its immediately iconic orange chronograph hand against a black dial. A single-button flyback movement, 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock mirroring the bezel shape, and a matching composite strap. The white gold 5968G is available in blue, khaki green (5968G-010), and other colorways. The 5968R in rose gold pairs a brown dial with matching strap. Among the most desirable modern Patek complications.
Ref. 5261 — Annual Calendar (2023)
5261R (rose gold) · Cal. 26-330 S QA LU · First Aquanaut annual calendar
The first Annual Calendar to enter the Aquanaut collection, introduced at Watches & Wonders 2023 in rose gold. The Cal. 26-330 S QA LU self-winding movement requires correction only once per year (at the February/March transition). The blue-gray dial and matching strap bring the Aquanaut's signature color language to a new complication tier. A significant milestone in the collection's mechanical evolution.
Ref. 5650G — Advanced Research (2017, 500 Pieces)
5650G-001 · 40.8mm · White Gold · Limited to 500 pieces · 20th Anniversary
A collector's piece of the first order. Produced in exactly 500 examples for the Aquanaut's 20th anniversary, the 5650G incorporates Patek's Advanced Research innovations: a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar with additional geometry on the inner coil's terminal curve — technology shared with Patek's annual Calatrava Advanced Research releases. A semi-skeleton dial reveals the movement. Highly sought by serious technical collectors, this reference trades well above its initial valuation.
Aquanaut Luce — Diamond-Set Ladies (2004–Present)
5067A/R · 5068R · 5267/200A · 5268/200R · 5268/461G · 5269R · 5072R-001 Haute Joaillerie · 7968/300R Rainbow Chrono
Introduced in 2004, the Aquanaut Luce — "light" in Italian — extended the collection to gem-set territory with a diamond-set bezel on a quartz ladies' movement. The current generation (5267/200A and 5268/200R) enlarged the case to 38.8mm and introduced the integrated composite strap. Available in black, white, and khaki green dials on the steel 5267; taupe on the rose gold 5268. The 5072R Haute Joaillerie goes further — pavé diamonds and sapphires throughout. Every Luce variant is purchased with full recognition of its diamond value.
Rainbow & Haute Joaillerie Complications
7968/300R-001 — Rainbow Chrono Joaillerie · 5260/355R — Minute Repeater Rainbow · Rose Gold · Baguette sapphires · Invisible setting
The Aquanaut's two highest expressions of gem-setting artistry. The 7968/300R-001 is the ladies' Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph — a rose gold flyback chronograph set with a full rainbow of baguette-cut multicolored sapphires and diamonds using invisible and snow-setting techniques, currently listed on Patek's active collection. The 5260/355R is the Aquanaut Minute Repeater — the first chiming Aquanaut, combining a minute repeater complication with the same rainbow gem-setting and accompanied by a matching jewelry suite (earrings and ring). Two exceptional pieces at the apex of where watchmaking and high jewelry converge. We purchase both with full understanding of their multi-dimensional value.
Collector's Nickname Guide
Every Aquanaut Nickname, Explained
J
Jumbo
5065A (38mm, 1998) · 5168G (42.2mm, 2017)
The "Jumbo" designation in Aquanaut collecting applies to two distinct watches across different eras. The original Jumbo is the 5065A — larger than the 5060A at 38mm, it was the first Aquanaut that felt proportionally modern. In the current era, the Jumbo refers to the 5168G at 42.2mm, the white gold oversized Aquanaut introduced for the 20th anniversary. Context determines which Jumbo is being discussed — both are highly collectible.
TR
Tropical Strap
All Aquanaut references · Original composite rubber strap
The Aquanaut's defining material innovation — a composite rubber strap named "Tropical" that took over a year to develop, resistant to saltwater, UV degradation, and bacteria. The strap's embossed texture mirrors the dial's checkerboard pattern, creating a visual continuity unique to the collection. Original uncut Tropical straps from early generation Aquanauts are increasingly rare and highly collectible on their own. An original, uncut strap from a 5060A significantly elevates the watch's presentation value.
L
Luce
5067 · 5068 · 5267 · 5268 · 5072 · All diamond-set ladies models
Italian for "light," the Luce designation identifies the gem-set ladies' branch of the Aquanaut collection launched in 2004. Every Luce has a diamond-set bezel; the Haute Joaillerie versions add pavé cases, paved dials, and gem-set straps. The name captures the intent: the diamond bezel catches and multiplies light in a way that transforms the sporty Aquanaut aesthetic into something more formally jeweled. The modern 5267 and 5268 Luce references are significantly redesigned compared to the original 5067 family.
RB
Rainbow
7968/300R-001 · 5260/355R · Baguette-cut multicolored sapphires · Invisible setting
The "Rainbow" designation refers to watches set with a full arc of baguette-cut multicolored sapphires and diamonds using invisible and snow-setting techniques. In the Aquanaut collection, two pieces carry this aesthetic: the 7968/300R-001 (the current ladies' Rainbow Chronograph Joaillerie, a flyback chrono in rose gold) and the 5260/355R (the Aquanaut Minute Repeater, combining a chiming complication with the same rainbow gem-setting). Both represent the pinnacle of Patek's gem-setting artistry applied to the Aquanaut case.
AR
Advanced Research
5650G · 500 pieces · 2017 · Silinvar Spiromax innovation
Patek Philippe's "Advanced Research" program designates watches incorporating proprietary technological innovations — typically in escapement or spring materials. The Aquanaut Advanced Research 5650G carries a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar with an enhanced geometry. Limited to 500 pieces for the 20th anniversary, it is the only Aquanaut to carry this designation. Collectors who follow Patek's technical development track these pieces as milestones — each Advanced Research watch marks a step in Patek's ongoing R&D story.
KH
Khaki
5168G-010 · 5968G-010 · 5267/200A-011 · Khaki green dial & strap
The khaki green color introduced on the 5168G-010 in 2019 has become one of the most coveted colorways in the modern Aquanaut lineup. Later applied to the 5968G chronograph and the 5267/200A Luce, it carries a tactical, utilitarian aesthetic that makes a striking contrast against white gold or steel. The khaki green Tropical strap is particularly distinctive. The 5167A-010 (2011 clients-only) was an early exploration of this colorway; the 5168G-010 brought it to the wider collecting world in 2019.
TT
Travel Time
5164A · 5164R · 5164G · Cal. 26-330 S C FUS
The Aquanaut Travel Time is identified by its two-hand display — one solid hour hand for local time, one skeleton hand for home time — with day/night indicators for both zones. The intuitive push-button controls on the left of the case allow the home time hand to be advanced or retarded in one-hour steps without stopping the watch. One of the most practical complications ever placed in the Aquanaut case, the Travel Time family has built a devoted following since its 2011 introduction. The 5164A steel was discontinued in 2024.
CH
Chrono
5968A · 5968G · 5968R · Flyback · Orange hand (5968A)
The first Aquanaut chronograph. The "Chrono" designation in Aquanaut collecting refers specifically to the 5968 family — a flyback chronograph with a single 60-minute counter and one of the most distinctive color details in the collection: the orange chronograph hand on the steel 5968A against a black dial. Introduced in 2018, the 5968 is one of the youngest Aquanaut complications and already trades at significant premiums. The white gold 5968G in khaki green is particularly sought.
What to Look For
Aquanaut Details That Affect Value
The Aquanaut rewards precise knowledge. These are the configurations, generation markers, and material details that separate a well-priced acquisition from a poorly understood one — and that we evaluate without guesswork.
The "Nautilus" Clasp
The earliest 5060A examples bear a deployant clasp engraved "Nautilus" rather than "Aquanaut" — a direct artifact of the transitional moment between the two collections. These are among the most historically significant small details in Aquanaut collecting. A 5060A with its original Nautilus-signed clasp intact is a more complete and historically evocative piece than one with a replacement or later clasp. We identify and value this detail correctly.
Cursive Date Font (5060 Generation)
The earliest 5060A models have a stylized cursive typeface in the date window at 3 o'clock — a specific design choice changed to a bolder, chunkier numeral style in the 5065 "Jumbo" generation. This cursive date font is an early-production marker specific to the 5060A and identifies the first-generation configuration. It appears nowhere in the modern Aquanaut line. A nice collector detail for those who track generational transitions.
Tritium vs. Super-LumiNova
The 5060A and early 5065A examples used tritium luminescent material in the hands and applied numerals. Tritium ages to a warm cream/patina tone that has become deeply appreciated by collectors — the warm glow of tritium lume is one of the appealing characteristics of neo-vintage Aquanauts. Super-LumiNova replaced tritium in later production. Tritium examples are identifiable by the T-Swiss patina and their characteristic aged luminous color. They command a meaningful premium among collectors who prize original, unrestored watches.
Original Uncut Tropical Strap
Every new Aquanaut ships with a Tropical composite strap that must be cut to fit the owner's wrist — the adjustment is irreversible. An uncut original Tropical strap — never worn, still full length — is extremely rare on any Aquanaut above a few years old, and on neo-vintage examples approaches unicorn status. Finding an original uncut strap from a 5060A or early 5065A that is compatible with the current-generation case is, as documented collectors have noted, "near impossible." Original straps in presentable condition add meaningful value.
Sapphire vs. Solid Caseback
The 5060A had a solid closed caseback — no view of the movement. The 5066A introduced a sapphire exhibition caseback showing the Cal. 330 SC within the same 35.6mm case. The 5065A Jumbo also has an exhibition caseback. This distinction matters for attribution and for the appreciation of the movement's decoration. Caseback condition is assessed as part of our evaluation — light scratches are expected; deep gouges or replaced casebacks affect value.
Embossed Dial — Generation Differences
The Aquanaut's defining feature is its embossed checkerboard dial pattern, but the execution changed across generations. The 5060/5065/5066 generation has deeper, more pronounced grooves with a higher-contrast texture. The 2007+ generation (5167) features shallower, more subtly curved embossing that transitions to black at the dial edge — a more refined, gradient treatment. The Luce models apply this same pattern in a jeweled context. Knowing which generation's dial pattern you're looking at is fundamental to correct attribution.
Color-Matched Tropical Strap
From the 2007 generation onward, Patek designed the composite Tropical strap to match the dial color precisely — black strap with black dial, brown strap with the 5167R chocolate dial, blue strap with the 5168G-001, khaki green strap with the 5168G-010. This color-matching is a signature of the modern Aquanaut's design coherence. Watches with their original matching strap in good condition are more desirable and complete than those on replacement straps. On Luce models, the matching strap contributes meaningfully to the watch's visual jewelry value.
Extract from the Archives
Patek Philippe issues Extracts from the Archives documenting a watch's original production date, reference, movement number, and case material. For Aquanauts — particularly the 5060A with limited production, gem-set Luces with custom configurations, and Advanced Research pieces — the Extract provides authentication, confirms original specifications, and has become a standard expectation among serious collectors. We value well-documented Aquanauts appropriately and are experienced at reading Extract details.
Advanced Research Movement
The 5650G Advanced Research carries the Silinvar Spiromax balance spring with modified inner coil geometry — a genuine technical innovation, not a cosmetic one. The movement is viewable through the semi-skeleton dial, making the innovation observable. Collectors who follow Patek's Annual Report and Advanced Research presentations understand that these pieces represent a milestone in the brand's ongoing material science work. We assess the movement's condition with full technical understanding of what makes it significant.
Gem-Set Bezel & Dial Condition
On Aquanaut Luce and Haute Joaillerie models, bezel diamond condition is central to valuation. The 48 round brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.11 ct) on the 5267/200A bezel should be examined for chips, replacements, or setting damage. On Haute Joaillerie models using invisible or snow-setting techniques, any setting disturbance requires specialist assessment. We evaluate Luce models with full gemological understanding and appropriate pricing of both the horological and gemstone components.
Complete Reference Directory
Every Aquanaut Reference, Catalogued
Showing all references
Original Generation — Refs. 5060 / 5064 / 5065 / 5066 / 4960 (1997–2006)
5060A — Original Steel, Rubber Strap
1997; Cal. 330 SC; 35.6mm; solid caseback; ~1,000 produced; cursive date font; "Nautilus" clasp signature on earliest examples; the founding Aquanaut reference
5060A-001 — Blue Dial, Red Seconds (Unique)
Probably unique; blue dial variant with red center seconds hand; sold at auction at Sotheby's; came with spare black dial and Extract from the Archives; the rarest known configuration of the founding reference
5060J — Yellow Gold (1996/97)
Yellow gold; ~1,000 produced; Roman numeral dial; leaf-shaped gold hands; no embossed checkerboard dial — transitional design bridging Nautilus and Aquanaut; black lacquer or silver/white dial variants; leather strap rather than rubber; production ceased ~2002
5064A — Mid-Size Quartz, Steel
1998; Cal. E 23 SC quartz; 34mm; same embossed dial aesthetic as 5060A; solid caseback; date aperture repositioned; smaller case size marketed to broader audience; discontinued with the 5065 launch era
5065A — Jumbo Steel, Rubber Strap
1998; Cal. 315 SC; 38mm; "Jumbo" designation; sapphire exhibition caseback (first in Aquanaut line); tritium lume (early) → Super-LumiNova (later); discontinued 2006; first Aquanaut with displayed movement
5065A/1 — Jumbo Steel, Steel Bracelet
38mm; Cal. 315 SC; stainless steel integrated bracelet — first Aquanaut offered on metal bracelet; sapphire caseback; same embossed dial; a rare configuration that commands premium over rubber-strap version
5065J — Jumbo Yellow Gold
18k yellow gold; 38mm; Cal. 315 SC; brown/matte dial; tritium lume ages beautifully on gold case; exhibition caseback; rubber strap; among the most desirable gold Aquanauts; tritium examples particularly appreciated
5066A — Steel, Exhibition Caseback, 35.6mm
1998; Cal. 330 SC; 35.6mm — same as original 5060A; sapphire display caseback added; transition from tritium to Super-LumiNova within production run; discontinued 2006
5066A/1 — Steel, Metal Bracelet
First generation of the 35.6mm Aquanaut on a steel integrated bracelet; exhibition caseback; Cal. 330 SC; a rare configuration with original metal bracelet in good condition
5066J — Yellow Gold, Exhibition Caseback
18k yellow gold; 35.6mm; Cal. 330 SC; sapphire display caseback; gold case with rubber strap; tritium lume; limited production run; patinated gold lume examples are particularly aesthetic
4960A — Ladies Quartz, Steel (29.5mm)
1998; Cal. E 19 SC quartz; 29.5mm; the first ladies' Aquanaut; smallest reference in the original family; marketed alongside the 5064A; precursor to the Luce ladies line
Second Generation — Refs. 5165 & 5167 (2007–Present)
5165A — Steel, 38mm (2007 only)
2007 only; transitional reference; 38mm case (not the full 40.8mm of the 5167); Cal. 315 SC; first year of the redesigned embossed dial and new integrated strap; single-year production makes it a short-run collector piece
5167A-001 — Steel, Black Dial, Rubber Strap
2007–present; Cal. 315 SC → 26-330 S C (updated); 40.8mm; 8.1mm slim profile; black embossed dial with gradient edge; black Tropical strap; the core modern Aquanaut reference
5167/1A-001 — Steel, Integrated Bracelet (discontinued 2025)
Steel; integrated stainless steel bracelet; same 40.8mm case and Cal. 26-330 S C; discontinued 2025; Patek's decision to reserve the integrated bracelet aesthetic for the Nautilus, leaving the Aquanaut exclusively strap-equipped
5167R-001 — Rose Gold, Chocolate Dial
18k rose gold; chocolate brown dial; matching brown Tropical strap; 40.8mm; Cal. 26-330 S C; exclusively on rubber strap; among the most classically elegant Aquanaut configurations in precious metal
5167/1A — Two-Tone Steel & Rose Gold
Steel case with rose gold bezel and details; a two-tone configuration appealing to buyers who want precious metal without the full gold price; rubber strap; limited availability
5167A-010 — Steel, Khaki Green Dial (2011, clients-only)
2011; steel; 40.8mm; khaki green embossed dial and matching strap; Cal. 324 SC; extremely limited clients-only release that preceded the 5168G-010 by eight years; the first Aquanaut in this now-iconic colorway; a genuinely rare reference
5167A-012 — Steel, Singapore Limited Edition (500 Pieces, 2019)
2019; steel; 500 pieces; produced for the Singapore Grand Exhibition; red rubber strap, red seconds hand, and red accent markers on black dial; among the most desirable Aquanaut special editions; striking red colorway makes it immediately distinctive
5167/300R-010 — Rose Gold, Diamond Bezel, Brown Dial
18k rose gold; 40.8mm; Cal. 26-330 S C; diamond-set octagonal bezel; brown embossed dial and matching brown Tropical strap; white gold applied numerals; the gem-set men's Aquanaut — bridges the standard 5167R and the Luce family in terms of decoration level
Jumbo Aquanaut — Ref. 5168G (2017–Present)
5168G-001 — White Gold, Blue Dial
2017; white gold; 42.2mm; Cal. 26-330 S C; blue-to-black gradient dial; blue Tropical strap; 20th anniversary reference; introduced the "Jumbo" oversize Aquanaut format in white gold
5168G-010 — White Gold, Khaki Green Dial
2019; white gold; 42.2mm; khaki green dial and matching strap; Cal. 26-330 S C; one of the most in-demand modern Aquanaut configurations; the khaki/white gold combination is widely considered the defining modern Aquanaut
Aquanaut Travel Time — Ref. 5164 (2011–Present)
5164A-001 — Steel, Black Dial (discontinued 2024)
2011–2024; Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; 40.8mm; dual time with solid/skeleton hand display; push-button home time advance/retard; date display; black dial and black strap; discontinued 2024
5164R-001 — Rose Gold, Brown Dial
2016; 18k rose gold; chocolate brown dial and matching strap; Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; first gold Travel Time Aquanaut; rose gold case with brown dial is one of the most harmonious color pairings in the collection
5164G — White Gold Travel Time
White gold case; blue dial with matching blue Tropical strap; Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; the most precious metal Travel Time configuration; limited production relative to the steel reference
Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph — Ref. 5968 (2018–Present)
5968A-001 — Steel, Black Dial, Orange Chrono Hand
2018; Cal. CH 28-520 S C; 42.2mm; steel; black embossed dial; orange flyback chronograph hand; 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock; the first Aquanaut chronograph; the orange hand against black dial is one of the most distinctive color details in the modern Aquanaut collection
5968G-001 — White Gold, Blue Dial
White gold; 42.2mm; blue embossed dial and matching blue Tropical strap; Cal. CH 28-520 S C; the standard white gold Aquanaut chronograph configuration
5968G-010 — White Gold, Khaki Green Dial
White gold; 42.2mm; khaki green dial and matching strap; Cal. CH 28-520 S C; extends the khaki/white gold color family from the 5168G to the chronograph format; highly coveted by collectors who complete the khaki set
5968R-001 — Rose Gold, Brown Dial
Rose gold; chocolate brown dial and matching brown strap; Cal. CH 28-520 S C; the warm brown/rose gold combination echoes the 5167R palette at a more complex complication level
Complications & Advanced Research — Refs. 5261 / 5650 / 5260 (2017–Present)
5261R-001 — Annual Calendar, Rose Gold (2023)
2023; Cal. 26-330 S QA LU; rose gold; first Annual Calendar in the Aquanaut collection; blue-gray dial and matching strap; requires correction only at the Feb/March transition
5650G-001 — Advanced Research Travel Time (500 Pieces)
2017; white gold; 40.8mm; limited to 500 pieces; 20th anniversary; Silinvar Spiromax balance spring with enhanced inner coil geometry; semi-skeleton dial; Cal. 26-330 S C FUS; highly sought by technical collectors
7968/300R-001 — Luce Rainbow Chronograph Joaillerie
Rose gold ladies' flyback chronograph; full rainbow of baguette-cut multicolored sapphires and diamonds; invisible and snow-setting techniques; currently listed as active on Patek's official collection page; the "Rainbow Chronograph" ladies' Aquanaut
5260/355R — Minute Repeater, Rainbow Haute Joaillerie
Rose gold; first Aquanaut Minute Repeater; rainbow of baguette-cut multicolored sapphires and diamonds; invisible and snow-setting techniques; accompanying jewelry suite (earrings and ring); the apex of Aquanaut complication meets Haute Joaillerie
Aquanaut Luce — Ladies & Gem-Set (2004–Present)
5067A — Original Luce Steel Quartz (34.6mm)
2004–~2020; Cal. E 23-250 S C quartz; 34.6mm; first Aquanaut Luce; diamond-set bezel; multiple dial colors across production run including the original "Adventurous Khaki"; replaced by larger 5267/200A
5067R — Original Luce Rose Gold Quartz
Original generation rose gold Luce; 34.6mm; quartz movement; diamond bezel; chocolate or other dial colors on rose gold case; original Luce generation before the 2020 redesign
5068R-001 — Luce Rose Gold, Mechanical
2010; Cal. 26-330 S C; 18k rose gold; self-winding mechanical movement (first mechanical Luce); chocolate brown dial and strap; 38.8mm; diamond bezel; significant step forward — mechanical movement under the Luce designation
5267/200A-001 — Luce Steel, Black Dial, Diamond Bezel
Current generation; Cal. E 23-250 S C quartz; 38.8mm; 48 diamonds ~1.11 ct bezel; black embossed dial; black Tropical strap; new integrated strap design; replaced the 5067A line
5267/200A-010 — Luce Steel, White Dial, Diamond Bezel
Steel; 38.8mm; quartz; diamond bezel; matt white dial with blackened Arabic numerals; white Tropical strap
5267/200A-011 — Luce Steel, Khaki Green Dial, Diamond Bezel
Steel; 38.8mm; quartz; diamond bezel; khaki green dial and matching strap — matching the men's 5168G-010 colorway; nods to the original 2004 "Adventurous Khaki" Luce
5268/200R-010 — Luce Rose Gold, Taupe Dial, Diamond Bezel
Rose gold; 38.8mm; Cal. 26-330 S C self-winding; 48 diamonds ~1.17 ct bezel; taupe gray dial and matching strap; the mechanical rose gold Luce in the current generation
5268/461G-001 — Luce Haute Joaillerie, White Gold
White gold; 38.8mm; Cal. 26-330 S C; fully paved case with diamonds and baguette-cut sapphires; Haute Joaillerie treatment throughout; the white gold counterpart to the 5072R; extraordinary gem-setting throughout
5269R-001 — Luce Travel Time, Ladies Rose Gold
Rose gold; Luce diamond bezel; quartz Travel Time movement; dual time zone display; the ladies' practical complication within the gem-set Luce format
5072R-001 — Luce Haute Joaillerie, Rose Gold
Rose gold; the apex of Aquanaut Haute Joaillerie — pavé diamond dial, pavé diamond case sides, baguette sapphire bezel, gem-set strap; an extraordinary convergence of horology and high jewelry; purchased with full gemological and horological valuation
7968/300R-001 — Luce "Rainbow" Chronograph, Joaillerie
Rose gold ladies' chronograph; rainbow of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds set using "invisible setting" and "snow setting" techniques; the most spectacular gem-set Aquanaut Luce chronograph; officially listed as the "Rainbow" Chronograph Joaillerie on Patek's current collection page
The Glenn Bradford Difference
Nearly Four Decades & Unmatched Aquanaut Knowledge
Glenn Bradford Fine Jewelry has been buying and selling fine jewelry and investment-grade timepieces for nearly 40 years. Our Southampton boutique has served the East End for decades, and our New York atelier extends that same standard of care to clients across the city and beyond. Over that time, we have worked with clients at every stage of the watch market — from first-time sellers navigating an unfamiliar process to seasoned collectors managing significant collections — and we bring the same attentiveness and discretion to every conversation.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is a collection that rewards deep knowledge — and punishes shallow assessment. We know the difference between the original "Nautilus" clasp on a 5060A and a later replacement. We know what tritium lume looks like at its best on a 5065J in yellow gold. We understand why the 5650G Advanced Research is not simply another 5167 variant, and we know exactly what the khaki green 5168G-010 commands today. When you bring us an Aquanaut — from the first generation to the latest Luce Haute Joaillerie — you are dealing with collectors who buy these watches for our own collection as readily as for trade.
Whether you are selling a single watch or an entire collection, liquidating an estate, or simply curious about the value of something you have owned for years, we are glad to be the first call. Reach us by phone, email, or through the form above.
How It Works
A Simple, Discreet Process
01
Submit Your Watch
Use the form above or contact us directly. For Aquanaut Luce or gem-set models, include close photographs of the bezel diamonds and any documentation. For vintage 5060/5065 examples, photograph the clasp and caseback.
02
Receive Our Assessment
We respond within 24 hours with a preliminary offer. For significant pieces — Advanced Research, Luce Haute Joaillerie, or early generation references — we may request an in-person review or additional photographs before finalizing.
03
Agree on Terms
Once we examine the watch in person or receive it via fully insured shipping, we confirm our final offer. We are transparent about our reasoning and work efficiently toward agreement.
04
Receive Payment
Payment is made promptly following final agreement and authentication. Wire transfer, check, or other arrangements available to suit your preference.
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. We work with clients throughout the United States and internationally. Submit your piece through the form above with clear photographs of the case, dial, caseback, and any paperwork. We will provide a preliminary assessment promptly and can arrange fully insured shipping or a private appointment at our Southampton flagship boutique — whatever is most convenient for you.
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Patek Philippe Aquanaut?
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