1960 Rolex GMT-Master 'Pepsi'
Reference 1675
Stainless Steel
Glossy Gilt Tropical Spidering/Vine Dial, Small Arrow
Original Oyster Rivot Bracelet
Excellent Condition
Box
Some vintage watches are prized because they have been perfectly preserved. Others are prized because time has transformed them into something entirely unique. This 1960 Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 belongs to the second, rarer category. Its glossy gilt dial has aged into a warm tropical tone with a striking network of spidering, or vine-like crazing, across its surface, while its faded "ghost" Pepsi bezel and original riveted Oyster bracelet complete a watch that wears its six decades of history with extraordinary character. Paired with the small arrow GMT hand of the earliest 1675s, it is a collector's piece in the truest sense, one of one by the nature of its patina.
The story of the GMT-Master begins in the 1950s, at the dawn of the jet age, when long-haul air travel created a new need: a watch that could show the time in two zones at once. Rolex answered with the GMT-Master in 1954, a watch closely associated with the pilots and executives of Pan Am and other transatlantic airlines. Its bidirectional 24-hour bezel and additional 24-hour hand allowed a pilot to track home time and local time simultaneously, a design so effective that it remains the foundation of the GMT-Master II today. The first reference, the 6542, used a fragile Bakelite bezel insert. Around 1959 and 1960, Rolex introduced the reference 1675, which replaced the Bakelite with a sturdier aluminum insert and added crown guards to protect the winding crown. The 1675 went on to enjoy one of the longest production runs in Rolex history, remaining in the catalog until 1980.
This example comes from the very beginning of that run, and it carries the details that collectors seek most in an early 1675. Chief among them is the small arrow GMT hand. On the first 1675s, the 24-hour hand ends in a small triangular arrow tip, a design that Rolex later enlarged for better legibility. That small arrow is a hallmark of the earliest production and an instant signal to collectors that they are looking at a first-series GMT-Master.
The dial is the heart of this watch. It began life as a glossy black lacquer dial with gilt printing, the style Rolex used in the early 1960s before switching to matte dials with white text later in the decade. Over the years, exposure to light has turned the black into a warm tropical brown, with lighter, amber tones radiating toward the edges. Even more remarkable is the spidering across its surface, a delicate web of fine cracks in the lacquer that resembles the veins of a leaf or the tendrils of a vine. No two spider dials are alike, and when the effect is as pronounced and evenly distributed as it is here, it turns the dial into a genuine work of natural art. The gilt Rolex Oyster Perpetual signature and the GMT-Master Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified text glow warmly against the aged surface, while the luminous dot and baton hour markers and the inverted triangle at twelve have softened to a creamy patina that matches the hands.
The bezel tells its own story. The red and blue Pepsi insert has faded dramatically over the decades into a soft, pale "ghost" palette, with the blue half turning toward slate and the red half fading to a dusky rose. Ghost bezels are highly sought after by collectors precisely because the fading cannot be replicated. It is the product of decades of sunlight and wear, and it gives the watch a softness and depth that a crisp new insert never could. Here, the ghost bezel harmonizes beautifully with the tropical dial, creating a cohesive, sun-washed look that is the essence of a well-loved vintage Rolex.
The hands complete the picture. The polished Mercedes hour hand and the straight minute hand carry luminous inserts that have aged in harmony with the dial markers, while the slender red GMT hand with its small arrow tip sweeps around the dial once every 24 hours. A thin central seconds hand completes the set, and the date at three o'clock is magnified by the Cyclops lens on the domed acrylic crystal, a period-correct detail that gives the dial a soft, warm depth.
Inside is a self-winding Rolex chronometer movement from the manufacture's celebrated 1560 family, fitted with a free-sprung Glucydur balance and Microstella regulating screws and beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour. As a certified chronometer, it was tested for precision before leaving the factory, as the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified text on the dial proudly declares. These movements are renowned for their robustness and reliability, qualities that made the GMT-Master a trusted instrument for pilots and travelers in its day.
The stainless steel Oyster case measures approximately 40 mm in diameter, with a screw-down case back and Twinlock crown that seal the movement, and crown guards on the right side that protect the crown from impact. The watch is worn on its original riveted Oyster bracelet, a design whose visible rivets along the sides of the links are a hallmark of Rolex bracelets from this era. Lightweight and comfortable, the riveted bracelet is increasingly difficult to find in original condition, and its presence here adds meaningfully to the watch's authenticity and appeal.
What makes this 1960 Rolex GMT-Master 1675 so compelling is the combination of early production details and a patina that can never be reproduced. It offers the small arrow GMT hand of the first series, a glossy gilt dial transformed into a tropical spider dial of rare beauty, a ghost Pepsi bezel, and an original riveted Oyster bracelet. For collectors who appreciate vintage Rolex at its most characterful, it is a truly singular example of one of the most iconic watches ever made.